don vito in china

Le Singe Blanc and Don Vito tour diary China November 2009
(thanks to don vito et merci le singe blanc)…
This is the tour diary of Don Vito from Leipzig, who live some houses away from me. They are on the tape compilation, which this blog is about… They did the tour together with Le Singe Blanc, who were touring china already in 2007. There is a great dvd of the 2007 tour of china that Le Singe Blanc did alone.

(parts of it are in very difficult automatic-translation-english, but i try to improve)
read this in english or (just the diary by don vito ) auf deutsch… and collection of chinese bands who played gigs together with them…

english version
Tour diary from Don Vito (Heiko) and Le Singe Blanc, mixed…

Don Vito (Heiko), november 3rd & 4th
3. / 4. 11. Two hours of highway to Berlin – wait – two hours flight to Helsinki – wait for five hours – eight hours flight … finally we’re there. The gate is enormous, and almost dead silent, even though hundreds of people queue – we must pass through the flu-control. All clean, allowed to enter. At the airport we now have to wait five hours until our friends from Le Singe Blanc arrive , with whom we will be traveling the next four weeks. we should meet also Alice here, which will be our tour guide. Alice is not her real name, but all the Chinese who are dealing with foreigners give themselves an English name, the Chinese cannot easily be memorized or partly difficult to pronounce. It is 8 clock in the morning, but we try our first Tsing Tao beer. Is quite useful and has only cost 5 yuan, about 50 cents. Alice does not show up and we can not call her. So we look for benches for sleeping. Pretty cold here, in Beijing it snowed the day before. Put the blame on the Chinese: Actually, they wanted to produce artificially rain (this is often done), now they have received 180,000 tons of snow … When we try to sleep a bit, we also get offered fine samplings of the unofficial national sport: Spitting. The winner is who loudest pulls up the most mucus from the deepest region of his body and delivers it in a wide arc onto the ground. Nevertheless, you can eat from the floor, for countless cleaning personell scurry through the area and to ensure that everything is sparkling clean. So… off to the reception of the French, Alice has now arrived and she has sought us four hours long … From Airport’s now going by bus to the city, ie one hour passing by the huge accumulations of thirty floor public housing developments. We meet with Nevin, who organized the show in Beijing. The backpacks are brought into the Hostel (8 people on 10 square meters, without windows), equipment to Nevin, the hotel rooms are not really secure. Then we finally get something to eat. A nice restaurant, a large round table with food carousel and many different dishes on it, from uaaeh to hmmm. After that we visit D-22’s, the club where we will play. The local band we do not spend too much time on, the versions of Hawi to Hell and stawie to Hewen are funny but we are far too tired, so off into the hostel, one last Tsing-Tao and off to bed.

5.11. sleeping long enough, it is already afternoon. Today is still idle time, so we conduct some tourism. Where should the tourist go? Exactly, to the Forbidden City. For a quick lunch on the roadside and the subway to Tian Anmen, the Tiananmen Square, famous from radio and television. There’s huge video screens. China in beautiful colorful advertising movies, many uniforms, and many people at the entrance to the Forbidden City. A lot of people can be found everywhere, but here are even more …

The Forbidden City, the ancient imperial palace from the 15th Century is very impressive. A temple or palace following the next, the places are becoming bigger and magnificent. The whole structure takes approximately one million people. After about two hours will also be closed already, we have seen almost everything. The following is a long hike to the subway (the many rickshaw offerings we have rejected), we can breathe a little Beijing air. Which is not bad at all, you can breathe well and you can even see the moon. The traffic is not so bad, though you should not trust that the cars really stop on red signal or slow for pedestrians. On the other hand, you don’t get across the road without some demonstrative confidence… Dinner, Tsing Tao, sleep …

Le Singe Blanc (Thomas), november 3rd – 5th

3 to 5 November 2009
Meeting at Clotilde’s place for departure by car to Luxembourg. Kevin, Magali, Vincent, Solange, Eunice and myself (Thomas).
we decide to identify the unnecessary things in our luggage because we are over-weight.
Arrival at the airport, light breakfast and off to the luggage check, the pedals and snare pass through in hand luggage under the suspicious eye of the Customs.
Goodbye to Solange and Magali (girlfriend of Vincent and Kevin) and go!
Short stop in Vienna and further direction Beijing, 14h in total.
We arrive at 12.55 (local time) in a large airport, arrival of anxiety, the basses are not in the luggage… Finally, we find them in a subdivision of oversized luggage.
We welcome our favorite trio, namely the DON VITO (arrival 5 hours before us) who wield a sign “Welcome great intoxication de luxe” hugs and 1st contact with our tour manager Alice.
Small Chinese woman from Wuhan, best friend of Wane (Booker), small glasses, hat, dressed punky-sober, she looks tired, necessarily, she ran around for 4 h after Don Vito, who were in the wrong place of the airport …
Quick, change money and bus 1:30, Nevin, an American who has lived 5 years in China and is booking concerts in D22, we expect on arrival, 20min walk to the hostel, we take possession of our neighborhood, a tiny room blind with 8 bunk beds, should not be too claustrophobic!
We start eating in a restaurant and then move to D22 to attend a concert by groups of students returning from AC / DC, Led Zep.
Back to the hostel with a few beers (Tsing Tao) purchased (0.25 euros!) In the street, the common room is pleasant, we are all dead, the time difference added a layer, we are collapsing at 11pm… to sleep.
[our district in Beijing]
Thursday, November 5, 2009
Sunrise to noon, call from Wane we learned that the sister and cousin Alice had a car accident the night and suddenly, Alice will not the start of the tour with us …
We learn later that in fact the mother of Alice came to hear that her daughter was leaving for a month on tour and that she would not work. The accident had taken place, but it was not too serious and Alice should join us in Wuhan.
Then we set out to conquer the Forbidden City.
The city is busy with people, vehicle for all types (bikes, cars, buses, taxis, trucks ,…), the sky is hazy pollution and humidity, it feels good when a few days prior to that, snow!
More 1h metro to reach our goal, Beijing is huge.
The Forbidden City is super armored tourists, many Chinese but also Westerners.
We prefer to visit the help of a guide rather than a backpacker’s audio guide.
It’s pretty impressive, I’ll pass the details, there are very good books on the subject.
Back to the hostel, dinner in town with his girlfriend and Nevin, debate hall, we are very tired of this day, the night will be restful.

Don Vito, november 6th & 7th

6./7.11. Kevin wants to buy drumsticks, so we drive to the Bell Tower area, where there are music shops. The district is currently the place to be in Beijing, here’s streetwear with hip shops, CD shops, skate shops … what the young urban folks need. Here we look around a little bit, take the subway, and are slowly going back to the club.

The D22 seems to be a very expensive live-trendy club, the card is in English, and many foreigners are there, mostly students. The sound check takes a bit, two boxes are gone and very quiet, otherwise there are two small transistor Combos by Marshall and Peavey, we will learn that the equipment is already good. The evening begins Nevins band, two Americans, a Swede, and their new singer, a fully tattooed punk from Beijing. 80 is given to American Hardcore, a few Misfits covers, and after 20 minutes it’s already over. After a local combo is tuned, interesting mix of Plingplongpostrock, Depri-punk and noise parts. The singer is very emo, but the girl on keyboards looks as if she would carry a mask during the whole concert does not show the slightest emotion on her face, scary. Our gig is quite good, the stage sound is shit, but the atmosphere great. The next band, we almost completely missed, as we cool down outside with a beer. Not much missed more mainstream rock. The evening is finished with LSB, good concert. And the party continues … no, not in the hotel, but the stress is now ready to kick off. We run with the equipment to Nevins booth, grab our rucksacks and head towards the station, which takes nearly two hours. The last stretch from the metro to the station, we have to go by foot, the heaviest things we load into a taxi that is going ahead with Susie and Tommy. Of course, the two promptly are exited on the wrong corner and we need to meet ourselves in one place. The Beijing Railway Station is huge and full of masses of people. Before we plunge into the crowd, we say goodbye to Alice. She can not come with us, because her sister had an accident and needs help. Wane will for a few days step in, who has organized the whole tour. We go into the waiting room for our train and get a shock: They all want to fit into this train? Huge pushing and shoving, Feels like 1000 people, we are in the middle. Eventually we will make into the train which is some miles long, but inside it does not look much better. With our bulky equipment, it is not easy, we create quite a mess. When everything is stowed, we squeeze ourselves into our seats and now have eight hours train journey ahead of us. It is eight clock in the morning, so crowded that you cannot think aloud or sleep. I first ask myself the question what I am doing here. Four hours, like chewing gum, the landscape is desolate, depressing villages and scruffy. At 4 a clock pm, we arrive in Zengzhou, where Wane is waiting for us already. She is a student from Wuhan, married to a Frenchman, and has already organized several tours for foreign bands. She is a very pleasant company and treats us like a mummy. Zengzhou is a provincial town with about 3-5 million inhabitants, no one knows exactly. Here, it looks quite different than in Beijing, the air is full of exhaust fumes. Everywhere hang around people who also look much poorer than in the capital. Wane organized two minibus taxis, in which it is still very much squeezed, they are rather micro-buses. How it comes that we arrived without incident at the hotel is a mystery, but it works. We share eight two triples and draw on foot to the club. The road is quite interesting, there are brightly-lit nightclubs, expensive boutiques, interspersed street dealers and migrant workers who set up their carts for the night, the contrasts are even crass. Zengshou is the capital of the second poorest province in China and has big problems with violence and criminality and the highest HIV infection rate in the country. The reason is that here the blood for many people is a source of income and for a time they used the same needles for all… no comment. Rumours say, people are murdered here for just two yuan, well great. As a foreigner it is strangely pretty secure, we get to the club alive. The 7 Live Club is a very big rock club with pictures of Eric Clapton, Bob Marley and Axl Rose on the walls. That’s not too many public in there, just some scene police consisting of local musicians, with an expressionless face watch everything closely. LSB start today. You can tell that they are tired and we surely afterwards come about in no other way. After eating one or two iced beers (terribly thin broth), we bring our stuff into the hotel and search for what to do. We reject the restaurant with a monkey penis on the menu, and are looking for something vegetarian friendly. On the brightly illustrated card I’ll find out a plate of fried chicken meat. The stuff is incredibly hot! All rejoice, as I did start sweating, red in the face and watery eyes, sitting there, but I eat on bravely. After this I feel great. Off into the hotel, shower, sleep.

November 6 to November 7 17h
To me, wake up at 6:30 like every day since our arrival. Jet lag had its effect.
This is the day of the concert at D22! I’m going for a stroll in the hostel, a few pages of my book and return to bed for a few hours more sleep. This is not a luxury, fully bursts since our arrival …
We must leave the room by noon, it is a Chinese coffee powder (substitute already mixed with milk), we really need to detoxify, impossible to find here in the street or in bars, seems the most appropriates. Alice is just waiting for us at noon for lunch. It is all very exits through the concert, and finally the beginning of the tour, Don Vito trample …
We’ll eat noodles in a small “restaurant” a street right next to the hostel. It’s just a hut, a few tables in the street, the taxi stops directly next to us all blinde. It is delicious, they are Muslims, feel the cilantro, the presence of viance is symbolic, a tiny piece on each plate. Despite repeated requests from Alice, Suzie of Don Vito who is vegetarian is left with the same dish as us. “The others were also to eat the meat” will be the only explanation … Vegetarians are a mystery to the Chinese eat everything here, when we lived famine …
We then went to the area of the bell tower, very well known here for his typical document, its two towers, shops and Western music stores. We must find drumsticks for Kevin. A good ride metro, shielded as they should, pubs digital pursuing the metro along the walls …
Photos will follow, there is no card readers today.

The area is indeed beautiful. A main street lined with small houses with roofs Asian typical of tiny streets filled start almost from every house to form a sort of casba on the back of the street … Lots of small stalls selling everything and anything, so I buy a multivitamin with milk and fags Chinese for 1 euro 50 … People do not pay too much attention to us, they are accustomed to Westerners here, but the beard even when Thomas does its effect. This is one of the few old neighborhoods of Beijing, they have almost all been cropped in recent years because of unsanitary conditions. They prefer to rebuild new “old” rather than restore them. And the restaurants here are somewhat crude, garish. In short, it is very beautiful, very simple and the two towers are indeed beautiful (pictures to follow).
Kevin found his chopsticks into a music store was the western, but for 4 euros instead of 11 …

It then returns the D22 to the scales. It is located in the neighborhood of the hostel is also the student district, one can cross many Westerners in its crowded streets, or it must force a passage between the stalls on the ground offering socks , hats, books, meal bonus of any sort, people, bicycles … Of a police officer goes, the word travels very fast, restless eyes, attitudes of the time of submission his presence yelling and the laughter and smiles to resurface it disappears.

I dreaded the return just in the club, the last time two years ago, the late evening was very agitated. After a month’s tour, after traversing much of China, they had found in the club owned by an American who made his fortune by the war in Iraq. The program, Nevin is someone cute, totally alternative, but his boss came parked his Ferrari in front of the club, I am not sure what came over me, I ca not really like, I piss … He overturned a glass of whiskey on the head, it has just stopped the slaughter while the bar staff around me, despite my philosophical explanations ETHYL my permission he pees on the car of my father and my relativization attempts, I finally give up and go home Nevin, who far from angry had many laughs.
This time, no problem, the boss has not come, staff exchange and Nevin in gutter forever. Cool!

Balance good galley, Clo has to make us sweat a correct sound, the amps are completely rinses, thomas no agreement at all on scene … But as it usually works wonders!
We then went to eat together in a small “restaurant” next door. Nothing as usual, less than one euro per person, it has filled the belly and it was delicious, always sick person despite the more than questionable hygiene …

Back at the club, the group Nevin opened the evening. The room is half full, their new singer is not, even when they attack … Criminal Minds is really nice, they had seen two years ago with a guitar and more and another singer was a bit messy, this time it ca va a basically old-school hardcore, pieces very short, ca does not tell it, it does not take itself too seriously. The singer landed in the middle of the concert is the only Chinese group, it looks all flustered, he is tattooed all over, he climbs on stage and then the energy group explodes, vraiment tres bon, he bounded in all directions, it is super generous and effective …
A Chinese group then played, very strange, post rock very cold but a little boring.
Then the Don Vito. Super concert, very high volume, people hallucinate and go wild. The hall was busy from the beginning. They massed at the scene and dancing and shouting between songs. A dozen people out, too violent, full of people remain in the balcony. The others take their foot. A lot of Westerners in the room, half, French, Spanish, American …
Another Chinese group after a few cold wave, too “loudmouth” for me, they play for ages … It plays later, the room was still a bit empty, but when you attack, everybody descends from the balcony and all are massed in front of us … Great show for us, people are in depth, several reminders …

We must stay at the club until 5am to then go directly to our train. Super time with Nevin’s group and the last revelers. Nevin is really excellent, but very simple DIY, not preachy and very generous. The Don is happy too. Kevin and Heiko finish coats on the sofa …

Depart at 5 pm with the gear to Nevin’s flat or we are waiting for our bags. Long walks with Nevin and his band, the singer playing punk, it laughs. After, depart for the metro costs as mules, it’s less funny. Then 1:30 Metro, we laugh more, then 1 / 2 hours walk to the station, you lose Suzi and Thom who left in a taxi with some of the gear, half an hour to find them, Alice is still with us . It really hurts, it is dying …

The station is crowded, you pass the checkpoints scan luggage, you get a waiting room or huge massed nearly a thousand people are lining up for a chopper for their luggage. We have reserved seats that blow it. They queue was half asleep. Go to the train there is war usual places, we find ourselves in the right car is blinde arch, an hour to find a place to all our cases, once the screaming pass rush, our Chinese neighbors we help at any caller, even taking part between their legs under their seats … It arises at last! I find myself in front of a couple, his bump in the safety record (I know what it is), she is a doctor of Chinese medicine. Everyone collapses and sleeps as dry, with Kevin we started the discussion with our neighbors, they ask many questions, he speaks English, he is a fan of English music (Celine Dion, Simon and Garfunkel and variety horrible). They are really nice and give us full of survival tips in China. I abandoned them after 2 hours I collapse on myself and sleep for an hour …
After the daily train Chinese back into place (see our blogs 2007), is the attraction of the car, it smokes fags between 2 cars, people offer us, those who speak English are we talking, smiles fuse is really nice. We spend 9 hours on the train, we Redorta 1 / 2 hour here and the … We refill our luggage carts are sick redial …

It’s been 3 hours we tape this report in an internet cafe, not the largest we have seen, it costs 15 euro cents an hour, I can more, more for later bisous a all friends …

Le Singe Blanc (Clotilde)
Saturday, November 7, 2009, arrival at Zhengzhou 17.20,

Wane is waiting on the platform, it’s reassuring to see, it is the sacrament exhausted and it is the guarantee that everything will be OK … Take the taxi to go to the hotel. At 8 with all our Bazarre it takes three. On leaving the station there is quite lot queue for taxis “official” (= those who have licenses and spin the meter), it is also alpagues by taxi drivers in black. As we are a little presses one accepts the services of a guy who is proposing two vanette. In fact it is still smaller than vanette but wad and AC returned: 4 per vehicle, it is bottled and they drive like sick! I had forgotten how when we use the brake, they simply use the horn …
Arrived at the hotel does is aue two bedrooms (with 1 lt double and 1 single bed per room, the bed is large, it is possible to sleep three). We are obliged to fqire a little gaffe in spending because even if it is not expensive the rcettes are proportional to the cost of living and 8, even in China, ca va vite!
No time to rest, it is presaue 19h, you must go to the soundcheck.
On 7 livehouse is not very far, let’s go walk. The place is not bad at the size of the room and the scene but it is a bit strange: it was not clear who is responsible or why they organize concerts, it does not seem very passionate (for accents you will now understand that these damn qwerty keyboards in China is not clear case there are any!).

You end balance at 20.30 and must begin the concert 21 pm, a little early for a Saturday but hey … Since we did almost nothing to eat all day we descend quickly take 4 dishes nuddles that divides (story keep going without being too heavy, we will eat later).
A 21h petante, little people, about thirty people, but we must begin. The white monkey goes first: there are few respondents in the room, it is unclear if people are shocked, surprised … they seem interesting but does not move, hardly cheering. So with the severe fatigue that is rather hard to pick up the energy, the concert is correct but minimal union has nothing to do with the Peking same thing for Don Vito.

After the concert, no music in the bar and people go direct. It is very strange, not eager to linger; any way was a bus at 7:20 the next morning and he is still eating, bathing, sleeping …
It abandons a cart on the spot, it is sensitive. The second lache 500m further down the street cheap chinese Hank … Back to square one tomorrow must buy two trucks for the gear.

Don Vito (Heiko)
8.11. Today we go to Zibo, this time by bus. Like in all stations, pubs, bars, TV sets are yelling full blast, with a lot of shootings and explosions, but still eight hours by bus are more relaxed, than the day before, which may be due to regular pee and smoke breaks (in the bus is surprisingly not allowed to smoke, otherwise allowed everywhere, even in the elevator). In Zibo brings us host Jerry (Jerry of course not his real name …). He divided us and the equipment at three taxis and a motor-rickshaw and off we go. The taxi drivers here are even more pronounced than in Zengzhou who have truly done with life, especially with that of other road users. Of their passengers, they are separated by a plexi glass box, they will know why. Nevertheless, we will arrive without damage to the club, even the rickshaw with the guitars, etc. appears after a few anxious to minutes. There are helping hands, warm greeting, the club is nice, the hotel is only 20 meters away … we feel ourselves well. The amps today are so far the worst and smallest. Really brutal noise with a Peavey Bandit attacks are not really in it … Thanks to the PA and Clothilde (LSB sound woman) but somehow it’s going and we go out to eat erstmal. In the small alleys around the club, there’s lots of little stalls and restaurants. We land in a shop, the record clearly is the dirtiest and uncomfortable, but offers terrific barbecue skewers. We sit around the table with a charcoal fire in the middle, draw us masses purely from the parts and pay almost nothing in the end, it is incredibly cheap here. The gigs at night are great, the atmosphere is very good. Instead of the people here are dance instead of Pogo, merry-go-round with touching, great. Susi gets after the appearance of a shy young man handed a rose, as in television, sweet. After the show, there’s karaoke and beer enough, and although chinese style from small glasses and toast. Gan bei! In this time, each hotel has a bed, it’s not the toilet, something is always. The hotels where we sleep, are always simple, the kind where foreigners are allowed to stay, do not actually that is only about the locals. Around noon, we have to get out. Our train to Hefei is only at half past ten in the evening, so we have a lot of time in Zibo. There’s a lot to see here but not, so we beat the time in the restaurant and internet cafe dead before we get our things from the club and drive the chaotic taxi us to the station. Once there, we find that two bags are missing, which then are delivered by Jerry quickly. Good man!

9.11. At the station it gets funny. We are now accustomed, that we draw some attention on us, but here in the waiting room, we really have the full attention of hundreds of people. We still want to buy something and decide for ourselves the larger of two shops. That one always needs to check the expiration date, we have already learned, so we go out again without buying what to do. Really everything is over for at least six months, whether candies, powdered soup or beer. In the next shop it looks a little better, plus there are interesting goodies for the trip, such as packaged meat from chicken, pig, donkey or dog, silkworms, pig noses, chicken feet, mini crab or dried plums with strawberry flavor. I can not decide at all, and therefore buy the cheapest bottle of Bao-Jin schnapps for 3 yuan (about 30 cent). The stuff must be a waste material from probably the chicken foot production, it tastes more hideous than expected. According to the cost but nobody wants to drink the last sip. The thirteen hour train journey sucks, but is interspersed with narrations wanes over the abduction of women, trade in fresh female bodies for post mortem marriages and other creepy stories. When we arrived around noon in Hefei, we are looking alltogether very nice. Scarcely out of the station, we will be attacked by a horde of beggars, which are incredibly persistent. Thomas hit a woman with her hand in his pocket and Christian is missing his phone, but probably he lost it on the train. By bus we drive an hour through the city until we get a new neighborhood adjacent to the university and will be inhabited by many students. The “On the Way Bar” is located in a sort of shopping mall and is very comfortable. The hostel is just one story hour; yher us and we can lie down for an hour. It takes almost nothing and had Soundcheck’s turn. I am not amazed bad for the guitar as a Marshall daseht with 4x12er and even more than the part turns out to be homemade copy, including sawed Marshall logo. There’s unfortunately less aurally resemblance. After the check, we are invited to dinner, there are the obligatory carousel table with all kinds of known and unknown goodies. Everyone is incredibly friendly here, pretty young people wave to us and a few even dare to call us for. It turns out that we are the first foreign bands that play here, but otherwise probably lose a few foreigners here. Accordingly, the club then well filled, although the next morning have to get out early, like before. The gig is quite funny, the people are visibly impressed. It is very much photographed, and afterwards, many want to be photographed with the bands. Many small and thin beers later, we call it a day for today.

10.11. Without serious incidents we are leaving in the morning for the station, the beggars and pickpockets securely leaving behind us, and boarded the express train that is taking us in just one hour to Nanjing. I have to live in the “conversation” with a lecturer for Environmental Protection in Shanghai. The communication is very difficult, we need all the fingers, pens, maps. Nanjing was China’s capital for centuries and is today a modern city with many impressive buildings. The club has yet to erstmal so we put our stuff into the hotel. This is slightly more expensive, and the cash in short supply, so many have to two double bedrooms. After a meal at a tiny restaurant, head to Old Castle Bar This is a hip club with european prices to come Chinese party in the mainly rich people, prostitutes and their foreign customers. Except for a few exceptions, the public has pretty ‘nen floor in the ass, mostly sitting on their barstools, grinning and clapping from and polite. Nevertheless irgenwie funny. On the toilet in a drunken Frenchman labert me and tells me the problem of our band. We do not want bekaspern mutually exclusive and entertain the public. I tell him that he has no idea of art and see that I am rid of him. No drinks in the store are too expensive, so we take care of ourselves at the kiosk around the corner and be filled, the re-corking. Kevin and I decide to stay with McDonals next door. Wane invites us, for she is overjoyed that she has recovered her purse, she had to look after two hours. Mala Chicken to eat … Night at the hotel we will still be taken to organize a small party in our room with a lot of nonsense and laughter, twice with supply of new drinks. Wane doesn’t drink much, but makes videos from all over the nonsense. In addition, it brings us to taste chicken feet too …

Le Singe Blanc (Vincent)
Vincent from November 8 to 10

Depart by bus for Zibo, 9am travel. We start early in the morning. The bus is rather based in China, a priori more people than places, things change, it is a little more comfortable even if it is old and rotten, ca not move in and it’s too quiet. Finally it is relatively calm. Everyone is glued to the screen that broadcasts movies Kung Fu Hong Kong chain. The speaker has a volume spit unbearable … But AC is frankly based compared to the train. It’s hot. Landscapes parade. It is always as flat, fields, forests skeletal village looks miserable … We test for the 1st time of motorway service stations, nothing special, standardizes was ca.

Despite very little sleep, so you get a little rest in Zibo. It is a small city of 2-3 million inhabitants …
Prices do not deceive, is a small town. Jerry organizer picks us up at the station, many Chinese will give an English name that we can remember … It is super cool, he pays 2 taxis and a scooter-car with a little old to bring the gear to the club.
The city is really small country town, but no Buldings small buildings in the center of the store branches, but a little cheesy compared to large cities. The streets are always cons as full and lively.
At the club, 3 other Chinese ahead, they are very welcoming, exchanges of cigarettes, a few words.
They will then pay the hotel located just next to the club. It is comfortable though shabby, we learn later that it is a hotel password is written in big letters on the walls of rooms “free condoms” and the deco is suggestive. But in any case, we are super happy, there is one bed per person and it’s just a symbol.
Grasse planned morning the next day, we dream!

Jerry works for Chinese TV, the club is free for him, just his passion for music. He praised all the equipment for the concert, he gives us all the entries. We then pays dining in a restaurant skewers. Christian is in heaven. The place is repugnant, a concrete room with barbecue indoors, coal, some VMC to continue to breathe. Everything is filthy but the essentials. It’s delicious and really cheap, 30 skewers of pork, 20 beef, 20 lamb, spiced with action, for 3 euros … It takes 2 times the total crisis of hunger Exciting things here regularly. We drink beers with high (3 degrees) …

They must then go play it already well filled but not armored. The Don Vito begin, we exchange the order every night. Euphoria in the audience, they are hellish rounds up flying in all directions. They howl!
It was us, they are boiled, the same home, it’s really nice is that AC also helps us endure the rest …

After Super Concert, big party on the bottom of karaoke, they make us the demo and we dedicacent songs, the first speaks of melancholy to be thousands of km from home.
Thomas tries it on the Mickael Jacson, it is all the rage, we play pool, we made Gambeya, first fired since the beginning, besides drinking, thinking it offers us all. Wane has been misunderstood, he writes everything down. He has already lost much of sub soiree with this …
They are fans of variety fancaises were then law has taken over by strangers Veronique Sanson of France Gall and loop! Ca ca crazy. I cracked, plug in my drive to discover and Dutronc they love. Everyone is super nice to us, thanks a foison.Le bar has hardly turned a part of our beers, he asked us to pay, 45 beers, ca will soon have 8 … But 14 euros … No problem, I pay.

And finally, a little drama. Heiko and Thomas boarded 7 beers a pac Heineken lying on scene. It comes to drink at the hotel. They were drinking quietly. Wane and Clo had gone into sleep, they come with a nasty head, the boss calls Wane, it is offensive but mostly very sad for the beers, he feels betrayed, humiliated, developed or ca fears for Wane continue to Booker here. Council of war, everyone is broken, shouting match between Don, they go to bed, Wane not understand, we try to explain that in France, it does lend itself to making head, Hehe .. But we understand … Even the cultural misunderstandings … It plays down before collapsing, it was deprived of a great night’s sleep in not speaking up to an hour.

Reveil difficult, we will apologize at the bar, looking pitiful is supported, warm hugs and payment of beers, Jerry forgive us, do we want more, he shows none stop.

Day Off, we must take the night train tonight. We’ll eat Baotzeu, balls of rice dough meat is wonderful, with ravioli, the resto people are super happy, they are watching us, smiling. Strolling in the city, you meet some kind of health park on the road to a crossroads, some massage equipment is super pleasant, then we find a net cafe. First email, start the blog, it spends 3 hours writing at full speed, smoking fags and drinking orange juice. It comes out like zombies, eyes a 75 hertz …

Back to the club to retrieve the gear, wrenching farewells around a milktee, one discovers the poster Vialka who also played here.

We arrive at the station, Kevin forgets all his chopsticks, Heiko her handbag … The boss arrived just after us with everything, re wrenching farewell, thanks and it darkens.

Train sitting, more room than in Beijing. Ca va. Discussion Wane with people and gear. We said things very murky and difficult to believe.
Bulk: People kill baby girls in rural villages are without women, they recover by removing adults in major cities or by purchasing them in Vietnam even poorer. They find themselves locked in a dark room and serve as breeding …
In some corners, a single male who die can not be buried alone, then traffic corps of young women, see murders throughout China … I like reading the Reader’s Digest … After checking with Ben and Co.; ent Wuhan, it seems to be only isolated cases rather swollen by tabloids. It reassures me I could not believe it ca …
Wane tells us full of other things equally murky, less spectacular but more credible.
Farmers who lost land in city records, they should apply for permits so they often refused leave like that, more trace of them after administrative. They are despised, they are given seats without seat in the train even if it is, they are undocumented. On this tour, I see them, unlike the last or the discovery made them invisible amid the crowds and Buldings. They wander in rags, making the bins are in the workforce for the plant invisible (they must be hidden in the countryside or in the suburbs) or they make stuff for the rest of the world at the lowest price. They are in prostitution networks or simply die in the midst of the bustle of cities to consumption. You can see them and beg to be thrown unceremoniously …
There are more than social security in China, schools are very expensive after the primary which is free but the books or are paying.
China is the model of our “democracies”, our future, our peasant migrants are undocumented … The variable adjustment of the economic system …

Sleeping like you can on the train, 2 hours each in bulk, about ourselves, the head on a corner table …

We arrived at 11 AM station has Effei. A fellow club ahead. This mega glaucous, the station is rotten. It is time that harass Clo go look for stamps (she never will be) by begging, kneeling, little old do we let go, they take turns, they are all old and rotten, aggressive … They are really many, we resist as we can, it is absurd to give and not to just feel like crying. Apotheose with a boy of 3-4 years before a knee Clo, she gives just 1 after another mother with her baby, she gives it … Ahhh!

We’re going to college or you should play, is a campus from outside the city. Thomas is making the pockets by a teenager not embarrassed, even unmasked it just continues to side with other people, Christian is robbed or loses his mobile, we’ll never know.

More than an hour’s bus, cross the whole city is very large. Everyone is shocked and broken, not a word during the journey. Alternance of commercials and movies ultra violent, realistic scenes of torture without a second degree … In the midst of families. They are crazy, they’ll make people Zinzin, military spending has collectivism individualism that plays with instincts to consume … Amid overcrowding … The last time the TV went of sentimentality and games, this time it really ultra violent!

The campus is like a science park the size of a city is super ugly and cold. With the lousy weather and more.
The bar is nice, all wood in the middle of a building in prefa, the hotel is a floor above and our restaurant just below. Cool! Tired of making expenses km as mules for anything. The hotel is nice, a bed each, showers with hot water. A nap is needed with a good grooming.
Then return the bar, the organ is Professor of Design and took over the bar for free .. Owl, the true cultural approach, full of books and 8 beers per person gratos … The gear is okay, a bit of sweetness …

The audience is very young, under 20, not foreign, as has Zibo, not bad blinde. It begins, big party, pogos a little violent for us, people sing with us … Same for Don … Big party after! We thank several times late in the evening, they promised to return one day, big dodo repair …

Don Vito (Heiko)

11.11. The train to Wuhan is another express train at 250 km / h we jet through the landscape, that now is properly nice. Fog-shrouded mountains, winding rivers, and terraced fields attract our views. After three and a half hours we are on target, it is fucking cold here. Ben, wanes man who picks us up and we squeeze all into a bus to divide us then to two flats. Don Vito moves in with Wane and Ben, who live in an expensive-looking apartment house. Wuhan is a diverse, vibrant city with approximately 10 million inhabitants. Here’s ultramodern building with spectacular neon signs and video screens, the largest mall in the world right next to the apartment (5 floors, 1.3 km long), but also parks, lakes, historic monasteries and about 100 universities. Later we all meet for dinner at the Sichuan-style, that is, pork, and many vegetables and everything harpen nicely. Then we stop at the Folk hand bar, a punk / rockabilly / garage-shop, where we meet a tattoo artist who recommended the Ben hat.Ich make him an appointment for tomorrow, Christian’s can not wait and immediately goes into action. Crisp, is in a corner of the bar, the master artist works very cleanly and carefully, not to mention the price. We look to sell other and pass the time with a drink. At the end of the day we divide ourselves and go to sleep. Really relaxing night is not in the apartment, it is terribly cold, the windows are only good for the summer and the heat is never turned on, as too expensive.

Le Singe Blanc (Kevin)

Nanjing November 11,

Depart on the morning of Heifei, there is a species of spitting Breton but I think this is a bad imitation Chinese, it does not always hot, Wane this feels sick and goes to the pharmacie.Nous take up a bus station, before we pass this kind of neighborhood kind of European architecture has very bad gout.Arrivee station, but change of status for Today, we take the TGV, and only 1 hour, c is almost vacances.En as an old railroad I can assure you the tgv Chinese is better than ours (well one of the SNCF), super comfortable seats and space, there is even a hostess who sells coffee for 15 qwei, do not dream it is not the true China, the Chinese of that train like everyone near and far are men of affairs, I do not know any Chinese pleasurable to mull 1.50 euros in 1 coffee … therefore, come to Nanjing, for those who have followed the episode of 2007 we have already come play here, the city has over another Chinese city, is very clean and didn’t change much, except for a metro, the seventh building the world’s highest and renovation of the highway where we take the metro trouvons.Nous brand new, there are very few of affluence which is surprising given the size of the city for 3 stations out Agricultural Bank of China, c is rather like the original station name, not • The Old Castle Bar is located just next to the station, the club is in a sub field and looks like a nightclub from mafia foxtail (c may be the case …), but is firm for the moment IT is only 3 hours after the midi.Direction the hotel, ask for the gear and then we’ll manger.Des bao chi and nouilles.C is the time to balance, we arrive at the club, nothing didn’t move for 2 years . Vincent invites Charlie Little Punk our guide on the previous tour had come to see us, it comes at a time of balances.Galere for scales, the sound system is a kind of multicast night club and half the speakers were washed finally you get a chose.Il are also some people from 8 eyes spy the group with whom they had played the last time he would play tonight but their bassist N was not la.Depuis 2 years they have recorded an album coming out on the label Nevin Beijing: Maybe Mars.Debut concert to 21h, it is not a lot of ny world but I’m sure more than half are interested in music, tonight it is the gift that starts Vito, very good d together as usual, even in the worst conditions, which we are not far away, they always provide … End concerts, I’ve broken my cymbal is chier.Nous drag in between the bar and drink the beers purchased in the the corner shop, chatted with Charlie, the organ and the 8 eyes spy.Heiko and I have decided of the experimenter Don Mc **** is just above, whether it has the same taste that here, answer yes , impressive, perfectly even go back chose.Nous al hotel, no it is not very late and the pad of squattons donation to drink a few beers and the latest lit.Demain n we have that 3 hours and a half train towards Wuhan.

Wuhan, Thursday 12 to Sunday, November 15, 2009

[Ben to Vox]

We arrived in Wuhan by a fast train (hehe this is the second one
takes only 3:30 when the last time we had the same
bus ride at night, ready to ride 12 – this says tickets
are expensive, it is 186 yuan per person is not far from 20euros). Ben
awaits us at the station and while on the train they tell us
an outdoor temperature of 19 degrees, one quickly realizes that
is not more than 8 … add to that a cold wind and start
to say we really did not take enough warm clothes.
Normally Wane told us it was enough Wuhan has a small
jacket. After verification on China Weather: we would be entitled to a max
14 or 15 degrees in the south (after the internet is always
Current temperature in Metz and Leipzig) and Xining he
currently -11, yeah!
It is split into two: Don vito go to sleep at Ben and Wane. Their
apartment is very small and rather cute, they pay by the cons
heating so they had not yet lit. There is not enough
place for us so we slept in Clement, a colleague of Ben
(it comes Tour, also JB and Jerome ‘tire’ if you read this
blog, you spent the morning). In fact the apartment is supposed to be a
flatshare ‘Ben and Clement but saw that Ben lives with a Wane
apart ‘purchased by the parents of Wane, Clement lives with his girlfriend’ wu
hen ‘(not very sure of the spelling …). It is very large compared
China has a flat, it’s not warm but there’s a heating
in the room where we sleep and they do not pay, then we
does not deprive them!

Don Vito, 13th of november
The next days will be spent in Wuhan, LSB play tonight, tomorrow we are, then is still a day off. After we met with the French, let’s go have breakfast. Favorite traditional breakfast, here are pasta with a spicy sesame-peanut sauce, delicious. Add to that a barbecue skewer and the day may come. Kevin has once again need something from the music shop, one of cymbals is broken. So we take the bus to another town. Once there, we go walking through a park at the Revolution Museum, which is filled with colorful kitsch flower arrangements on various topics such as education, taxes, national defense, and eternal love. The Music shops there’s not any more, only for a couple of pianos and related stuff. Ben still has a tip and we end up in there in a drum school with a small shop. While Kevin shall examine the offer, we can listen to the little Wonder drummers of tomorrow and see and admire countless evidence obtained for contests.
On the way back to the bus, we pass a couple of women who offer standing at the roadside some colorful paper. I learn that you can buy all sorts of bills and certificates stamped by train and plane tickets for the expense report through to diplomas and other qualifications. We think about it, buy for 20 euros a Chinese honorary degree that’s it but can still remain. After a good hour bus ride back, we create our equipment to the Vox Club. This is a very large and super professional shop, backline and PA are the finest, the staff are up to date and speak English well. The highlight is certainly a red-white cat who is incredibly curious and inquisitive. LSB to build and do sound check, I have a 7 clock my tattoo appointment, so just around the corner to Folk Hands cleared the bar and arm. Despite the small size of the subject, it still takes quite a while, when we come back to the club, is the opening act finished. Too bad, seems to have been quite good. There are about 150 people there, many of them French. There are not so many foreigners in Wuhan, one of which, however, come from many Fankreich, partly because Renault and Citroen have here works. All we know, but foreign language teacher at one of the universities. LSB play an excellent show with two encores, the audience is for this country rather cheerful. Toward the end of the gig should complete the shop again significantly, then is in fact Disse. Accordingly, the audience, we move to the folk hand bar there is just someone’s birthday and there’s free drinks for the next hour, and afterwards gladly kept on drinking, the birthday child becomes unconscious and is carried away. Early in the morning eggs, we go home. Along the way we still buy for each a final beer, Christian carries the bag and falls onto the ground after 10 meters – 50 percent loss. We go to sleep so well …

Le Singe Blanc, 14th of november
Thursday night we went to eat together in a restaurant kitchen’s
Sitchouane. It’s cheap and super epic! (Sichuan is the
province whose main city is Chengdu, known for its
very spicy food).
Then they took us to their graduation, a small bar just
VOX below (or on the next play) called “Wuhan
prison. “It’s a very underground compared to what has
already seen in China. I think many Westerners there
found. It is run by Chinese, small deco ambience, punk,
rock, with table football and a guy who has a tattoo booth. The
Beer is 5 yuan, they also make cocktails at 20 or 25. The place
is nice. The Don vito want to tattoo Chinese Don Vito
on the arm. Heiko rdv takes for the next evening but the Christian
done immediately. So we spent the rest of the evening was the
look. The tattoo is very quiet and seems very sweet and
careful, it’s almost like …

Don Vito, 14th of november
Today, we repeat the breakfast habits with sesame noodles, then the guys from LSB go for a park with Ben, to shoot some photographs for his current project. They get dressed and pink dildos fetish clothes pressed into his hand and pose like primitive man … Clothilde has gone to buy materials and Vito’s go to the mall with Wane – Christian is to get new glasses, which are very cheap. Search for vision screening and rack takes nearly an hour, the production also. In the meantime, we go into a supermarket to buy juice and water. Big mistake – the overcrowded supermarket is huge, two-storey and total. At each of the 40 cash desks at least 30 people are standing, it takes a good hour until we’re out here again. Meanwhile, the glasses are ready, which cost about 15 euros. We hurry up to get away from here and hang around a while in the apartment. From the window we see that the traffic outside came to a standstill, nothing is moving anymore. On foot we go to the club and wait for the sound man, who arrived two hours later, also on foot. The time we idle away with some pool billard and with the cat, who joined us playing. I change the strings on my guitar, the amazing animal steals one string and I have to stumble behind her all through the store to regain it…

Today, Thomas gets a tattoo, his first, and painfully enough on the knee. After a few minutes, he looks pretty green in the face. We can not wait until he topples over (not even happen, he keeps bravely through) and go into the club. The opening act plays epic post-rock without any highpoints. It’s not as crowded as yesterday, still standing traffic makes itself felt, not even the crew in the club is complete. Our gig runs quite well in the second encore we want to play Ka, but I have no idea how the piece starts looking and must give up, we play something else. No matter, funny. The same game as yesterday, fleeing the Disco crowd in the Folk Hands bar, night cap, home, sleep, cold.

Le Singe Blanc, 15th of november
The next morning it was late morning. Ben comes to us seeking
one hour. We joined the others and they will eat noodles
peanuts (that is the specialty of Wuhan, I like too but kevin
is excited) and Bao Zi; is dough balls puffed cooked
steam with meat inside is delicious (for Metz
is better known under the name of Ban bao). Then Kevin needs a
since his crash cymbal is now hurting and he does not want the
broken completely, the blow we took the bus and we’ll have a place
rather unlikely that resemble a drum lessons but he or
finds happiness. There are 20 to 30 min bus so we did not have time
to do something else, it is already 4am and we soundcheck 5h.
The sound engineer of Vox called Thumper, it is very nice and speaks
english. There’s a new Chinese group playing before us is
of youngsters and what they are doing is really not bad: 2 guitars
bass and drum machine for a sort of no wave a little pop, rather
original to a Chinese group, compared to what has already been
see. The pleasant surprise is that there really crowded at
concert (almost 150 people) and people are well founded.
A lot of French in the room (Teacher, Ben pots) but also
other nationalities (Croatian, English and Chinese of course). 2
reminders, returns are great (I heard the Croatian notemment say
Vincent has that AC had been thinking a Pere Ubu, several Chinese
say it was very hard for them and they are not ready
forget ca), ca fait du bien!
By cons after the concert on Vox turns into a kind of
infamous nightclub, no desire to linger in the low-mid
redneck, one size fissa drink once in Wuhan prison. More
It was the birthday of a guy, there are tours available!
Obviously I discuss and arrive too late to blows gratos …
The evening was really fun, drinking beers and then finally
follow ben a vodka red bull story be a little drunk because
that good beers 2.8 ca va 5 minutes! Heiko has his tattoo
thomas sacrament and is trying, Heiko and pushes the alcohol, it
rdv takes for the next 19h …
[tattoo for Thomas Wuhan in our favorite bar]

Late night around 3am, we are preparing to return with Clement and his
girlfriend, you just order a small skewer outgoing history
is stalling a bit because we did not eat much that night (and yes China
you can eat great even late at night or in the corners there
clubs, guys are in the street making kebabs). By
cons Clement gets a call from Remi (their colleague teacher
French to him and Ben, a real cream, it looks like francois
Paniel), he just got hit by a car, we must
take him to sew up his chin to a hospital. Nothing serious but
Remi is that the last two months and did not speak Chinese while
Clement, who has taught himself since 1 year, démerdez is super good
and then hen Wu is Chinese, ca can help for the hospital. So they
chopent soon a taxi and go home alone.
Hospitals in China is the horror, worse than in the U.S.! It
No health system so if you have money they will
treat, if you go home (either a broken arm or
something else). In this case we had to pay before remi
power back into the room to be sewn (they have the
show the proof to a nurse who only then them
opened the door). One really wonders what may well be of
Communism in this country from the party. The schools charge fees and
dear, there’s a lot of people but everything seems hyper individualistic
mentalities and in solidarity? Just one example: in
train there a number of seats and then it
but the standing tickets are at the same price. Wane said that sometimes
tellers when they see their farmers say there
more seating, even if it is not true, just because
are peasants. It is a bit chilling … After ca does
not law, of course we can not summarize a ca the Chinese mentality.
But in any case we feel strongly that overcrowding does not help
make a friendly people and solidarity between them. And in this
countries, like many others, is money and the “guanxi” (not sure of
All this written as AC), ie the network of
knowledge that are most important.
I will now tell you my day on Saturday (because What
not all had the same). And then I let someone else
Finally, because we are in a net cafe in Changsha and I have the sound check
of Don Vito in 20min. And boy are they are frosts in the net
coffee, my fingers are chilled …
So Saturday, you wake up late the previous evening. Ben we
joined together and we’ll eat a wonderful dish of dumplings
(steam dumplings) and a Chinese soup dumpling is very
tonic. Ben will take the three guys in the woods
take pictures with them on a photographic project that
develops in relation to the invention of a fifty seventh MINORITY
China, in short something rather intellectual (I hope you will
an online photo, ca vaut le detour …).

Wu hen proposes to take me to a store where she goes and I said why not, it might be nice. Except that nobody thinks that was Saturday … We boarded the bus 15h, the soundcheck I don vito of a 17h.
At 15.45 we had not arrived, so there was movement. Wuhen, seeing that I was panicking a little me has to come down and take a taxi to go faster. That said the taxi does not Ennorme faster. So I send a message because I know now that I’m late. Finally we come to 16:20.
I’m staying 20 minutes in the store (not much time to enjoy)
Then I told Wuhen I gotta go, she accompanied me for me
put in a taxi because it was still racing to do. No taxi
does not stop, traffic is at its peak. So she told me
take the street on the right and cross the bridge, I find taxis
on the other side, and to write the address on a piece of paper. Me
voila party alone and reached the place where we were the
watch for cymbal Kevin. I’m trying to stop a taxi, they
not stop, then finally there’s one that stops, I
shows the address and he nodded no, it does not go by
the! Shit I say, I am not so far away, I’ll take the bus.
I boarded the first bus, it shows the address and he told me
take 401. Ok no problem, the 401 arrives, I go inside,
shows the driver the address, he confirmed. It is already 17H10, I do
will not be before 17:30 I warn Wane.
17:30 houhouhou at 17:30 we had done the maximum 1km. At 18h we
WAS stuck in traffic jams irrevocably. I was in
despair when suddenly the driver shouted something in Chinese: full
people down and he turned around. Therefore I do not know or are
is, I do not know or we are going and I can not speak Chinese and I
misses the balance of Don Vito! yippee. I say stay on the bus
is the best solution, take my misfortune and not pateince
panic: it must take a road less smoothly … resultat 10 min
by bus carrement cuts the engine, it is the waterfront
impossible to advance or retreat. He is 19h. I show my address
a nice couple and I understand they tell me we’ll get there
it is currently around. At approximately 19:30, the bus starts up again
and a branch of the driver is left and all the bus
has put him yelling. It arrives at what appears to deposit the
bus, it goes down and get something and then one starts actually
to where people wanted him to go. I arrive at a vox 20h, the
nice little couple tells me my stop, but that it was the
them, their presence was soothing. In any case I’m jaded, I
spends more than 4 hours on the bus for 20 minutes in a store and I miss
the sound check of Don Vito … The positive point is that the sudden I
could benefit from collaboration.

sorry but I must go, I’m on the verge of missing their re –
Balance … bises a while and live with own toilet paper!

Don Vito, 15th of november
15. 11.
Today it is really disgusting. It’s cold, stormy with a nasty rain, snow comes down. Yet it can not discourage us from today’s plans and so we squeeze right into the bus, after one last sesame noodle breakfast. This wreck of a bus must have been sorted out in Romania, it crashes, crunches and exhaust fumes all end up inside the bus. Fortunately, many windows are broken, though there is a terrible draught (almost like Hechtsuppe).
The torture takes an hour, until we arrive at the bus terminal. Here, the Yangtze River flows through Wuhan, certainly one kilometer wide. For 1 yuan per person, we take the ferry over, which takes about fifteen minutes. The time is shortened by a man with his karaoke machine, he is loud but not particularly good. Once on the other side, we notice first some small houseboats, where people live under poor conditions unbelievable.
The market is stunning. Countless streets filled with hundreds or thousands of small stalls and shops, interspersed with boulders and unstoppable throng of people, trucks, motorcycles … There are several districts for household goods, fabrics and wool, shoes and clothes, food, tools and so on. Very impressive and the tenements in between, like many houses in China offer the impression of total chaos and decay, barred window into the 10th Floor, laundry hanging everywhere, surrounded with lots of garbage.
When we take the ferry back, we’re pretty exhausted. The singer is much better this time. The music is pretty cheesy, but somehow fits well with the mood, as we sail in the beginning of dams on the Yangtze ring. I feel like in a travel video.
The bus back is intact and tight, but so crowded that you could put your feet without falling to the ground. At each stop, the crowd starts, people are trapped in the doors. The whole lasts about an hour and is quite exhausting. I would not like to have this every day …
When we finally get out and walk to the club to pick up our stuff, it’s freezing cold and snow, rain beats against us. To reward and indulge because it’s the last day in Wuhan, we have a slightly better restaurant. There are shrimps, roasted lamb, various vegetables and noodles. The meat comes to the gas flame in the middle of the table, everyone gets plastic gloves, and you can catch the pieces by hand from the pan, great mess.
One last brief visit to the Folk Hands bar, then off to the sleeping places, the night is short.
A change in the plan’s still there, Alice can not make the trip with us, there are problems with her family, Wane skips lessons at the university and will accompany us.

Le Singe Blanc (Thomas)
From 15 to 17 November 2009

Sunday, November 15

Clo rises before us to get some fruit and coffee at the supermarket so that we can take a breakfast early before finding the Don Vito, Ben and Wayne to 11am for food and presents a departure to the other side of the city bus for 1h then boat across the Yang-tse, wide river that cuts the city of Wuhan in 2.
We arrived in a neighborhood full of small shops, mostly textiles, appliances, all open onto the street with really great world, so that it creates traffic jams human is funny enough to live, we continue in the area of materials and equipment, same configuration, full of small shops opened on the street, much less crowded this time.
We can cut short a visit because of the cold and rain, reprennons the boat hoping to have the strength to move to “second hand market” sort of worn clothing giant, we do not see anything because we squat for a KFC keep warm until Alice supposed to recover.
[human traffic jam in an old district of Wuhan]

In the final, not Alice, injoingnable, Wane decided after an hour we can be sure to leave Vox to retrieve the gear.
That’s what we’re a little disappointed not being able to move in this frippery but with the hope of finding a warm place to restore us and enjoy the last moment with Ben.
We finns quietly the evening in a restaurant or they do a great lamb and shrimp, last beer in our favorite cafe and back home Wane for Don Vito and Clement at us with all the gear, the return is difficult in the rain gelee .
Delegations discussed about who will accompany us on this tour (we still do not know), Clement and his cop’s subdue a film we are trying to dry clothes before the air conditioning, sleep to prepare the next day.

Don Vito, November 16th

After four days of extensive freezing, it is eating pretty much on our substantials, so we really look forward to the train to Shangsha. After the usual bus ride and waiting and shoving at the station and where it is… then – purely on the train, stuff stowed, seats taken … something wrong here. The heater does not work and there is a terrible draught through the entire train. Nooopppe! We try to make warm thoughts, what works over nearly four hours.
Once in Shangsha, we march for a pleasant short bus ride to the club that makes a very pleasant impression, and primarily has a functioning heating – heat! We gather ourselves with the heating and recover right there, it feels good. Wane, and off you go looking for a hotel nearby. It is an expensive and a cheap, the cheap is booked. The word shit hole makes it pretty good, the brothel is really bad. Window, there are either not, or they are broken, the heater must be paid in three hours tact for heat, they do not work. We go eat something, then back into the club. The sound check must still wait for something that is still only soldered and repaired. When everything works reasonably,’s also about going on already, a local band starts. The three boys are still very young and their melodic-punk a la Green Day has a few quirks. The next band to their classic skin-Oi-punk out routine, the audience goes off well. LSB as the last play, the people like more the straight songs.
I feel lousy about the whole evening, got the food is suspected. dont even want beer, I just want to get into bed. In the cold room, I hide myself under the blanket to sleep the next 12 hours. The others are still making after-show in the other room, I only get to be heralded as the dark night.

Le Singe Blanc,
Monday, November 16

Sunrise 7am to finish arranging the latest clothes to dry, a month touring = too many clothes to wear, when to do the laundry for you got the time.
It is hard, sutout it was still super cold, it’s snowing outside, Wane and Don Vito must join us at 8am.
Clement stands, he went to give her lessons with Ben, who comes from a call to propose to move a movie to students … the WE has been hard for them too, eh, eh.
We’re close, Wane and Don arrived around 8:25, we need to speed because we still need to swap the tickets because we were not good, it is possible that we went to Changsha standing … 3:30 is still manageable.
After the crowded bus, we arrive at the station in the snow, the notes are exchanged, SUPER!, There are seats.
40min of waiting, there’s really a bunch of people waiting (like over 800 people) is the race to unlock doors, we find Alice on the platform, she was with us and will return Changsha Wuhan was Wednesday, so it will eventually Wane tour with us, she explains, once installed, it was more or less “escaped” from his parents to come when even with us.
So we have seats, but I find myself far enough from the others, I fell asleep super early for my 1:30 wake up before arrival.
We had expected the station 2 of organ concerts that we do, because tonight there are 2 local groups LSB and 1 group tomorrow Don Vito, Wane ca anticipated that we had more tunes.
[home to the train station of Changsha] [Orgas concert Changsha]
We take a bus to take us near the bar, CITU in a neighborhood full of shops of clothes, of food and stuff for a tourist, we put our business and decide to go eat a piece, a small restaurant next to the bar, bof , bof, it has been used to better Heiko complain even of this food later in the evening, return to the club to the sound check, but the installation is finished, we wonder what the 2 Sound guys are exactly, they seem not to over control their history, we offer assistance in advance, but he does not want … ducoup everyone is sticking to the heating because, damn, ca quail back! and I can tell you that cold, it creates tension when you’re tired.
Like the sound check is not about to start, Clo and Wane to conquer an hotel, they come back 15min later to pick up everyone in a hotel very close, cheap, but not comfortable: 2 rooms each 2 beds 1 place and a half, no one in windows, and windows without glass in the other, is paying the heating, no hot water so no shower for 3 days …
Back at the bar for LSB, the Don remains in their room (the one with windows …) to rest.
The sound is still not ready … Vincent Clo down and buy a variety of seeds full of coffee and another thing that makes the potato, AC can not wait too suffer from the cold.
The Don Vito and Wane JOIN us around 19:30, surprising that we did not balance, Wane tells us that the concert after Nanning (for the fiesta student) is not possible because it would have to declare the Government and Wane n ‘ has no desire that it s’interresse too close for this tour, for cons, there is another option, each group plays 3 or 4 pieces to a commercial operation selling real estate … we do not really understand the delire, Wane tells us that if the contract is signed, the guys can not stop us and plus we should spin Yuhan 2500 (250 Euro) which would put a can of money in the fund as yet, there’s not many people at concerts (except Wuhan) so no big fees, we are still in deficit.
20h: That’s it, we can make the balance, the concert should begin 21 pm and there are 3 groups … the rule is on scene, vincent amp is big, but spends a quarter of the volume, it sounds shit, must therefore resume the sound, everything AC in 30min, conditions on scene are very rude.
Balance of 2nd group of punks and balance 77 / 1 concert group of youngsters that we mail a punk roulette, like “Green Day”, they sound rotten, the sondier licensed services was not very, I think as he cares, then the punks 77, super looker with a Gibson SG and a Musicman bass, it’s hard to understand the Chinese punks, when you know the price cost of these instruments in Europe (between 1500 and 2500 Euros) and the average income of Chinese cities (300/400 Euro / month), I can not help thinking that people are rather wealthy backgrounds, but hey, it’s my view celoni Heiko, guitars are fake.
There are a set course and it was us, despite the conditions of (a symbol of the sound gets a deconner during the second group), we get a chopper to the public that remains (the punk fans were gone even before the beginning of our concert), we have the right to recall and celoni the Don Vito, the sound was good before, even the exploits of Clotilde, which happens all the same to do something good despite the technical conditions often mean by china.
Concert ends fairly regular, the most public part, any one fellicite and we hope to come again soon, Don Vito and Wayne decides to go back to the hotel with a few beers, they are tired and sick (see the food the restaurant, celoni Heiko), we rejoin after 1h to start a good evening of fun.
First we go out to buy beers are recovered Susi, Christian and Wane we embarked in our room, short of Chinese with Wane, Susi and I set off again to the conquest of beer, the evening ends in the right humor is what we needed to warm the heart and managed to fall asleep by a 2 bed in the cold.
[our hotel was awful Changsha]

Tuesday, November 17, 2009

Rude awakening in the cold and good stiffness around 12:30 we take off to go eat in town, then Vincent and Clotilde go with 2 of the waitresses in the club they are a store to buy scarves, hats and gloves, as he always does cold during this time, we we will make the shoe stores for Susi and Wane is still who find shoe her foot, she bought a pair of super hot shoe “for the train and the hotel,” she says.
And then the net cafe for us to get news and to give.
I confess that it is very difficult conditions this tour Being very hard this time, we do not have too much courage to do anything but rest and re-heat, but would like Heiko “If t ‘ ‘re not sick on tour is that it’s a holiday! ”

Don Vito, 17th of november
Around noon we got up, it’s time to look around a bit. Opposite is a shoe market, where you can find all kinds of sneakers from adidas, adidos, abibas and other brands. Around the corner there’s a street with lots of shops for pet supplies, a dog, a hairdresser, a veterinarian. Two houses away, a guy selling meat from deer and dog at a time. Funny, they have a bee costume to dress their doggies (almost all the dogs here are clothed), they chop the other into pieces and eat them – somehow symptomatic of the country.
Really exciting no, the next hour we will spend in an Internet cafe. Today Myspace is working, so I can finally upload the first part of the blog. Of course it is also very cold. McDonalds is a last resort, there’s coffee and it’s warm. On the way back, we learn that Wane is already in despair, where we stay, we are half an hour late.
Senseless way today play the same two bands as yesterday the same set as yesterday, obviously a lot less people are there. We’re playing one of the better kits so far, to reach people but not really. It is often the case that the public indeed quite impressed but also somewhat bewildered and overwhelmed acts, but we’ve omitted some of the more oblique pieces and replaced by more accessible.
After the show, the operator of the bar wants to do something good for us and invites us into a restaurant with local specialties. It is the same as yesterday! I am just recovered again, therefore, renouncing any further experiments and will confine myself to my drink. The toilet in the shop the way, is really worth seeing, even for this country’s here looks pretty Keimig. That one vorbeimuß on the way through the kitchen and several bedrooms, makes it even better. Quickly into the brothel and into bed, we need 4.30 clock out again, it’s already got one through.

le singe blanc
Vincent from November 17 to 19

After a walk after twelve o’clock and internet cafe, we return the club to the concert of Don Vito, far fewer people than the previous day but as usual, they inflame the people present. The Orga are much more relaxed than before, they are very impressed and happy with 2 concerts, it was a case of free beer (ouaou) and then they take us to a restaurant specialties of the area …
It turns out that this is the same where we went yesterday … There was no AC is terrible stomach ache for me and after Heiko carrement spends 3 hours in bed … We laugh, the Don Vito eat anything we attempt. It was well done, not at all the same dishes as before, it’s delicious. Bizarre, we eat at a table, people from the bar to another, despite our insistence, nothing was done. There is then a hotel after a few beers around. It sets in our hotel or a dirty woman utters plaintive cries in the next room, sleeping 2 hours. The Don Vito transits are cold, no effective window and it is very cold …

Very painful awakening at 4:30 am, a small hangover and a lot of fatigue. We’ll wake up the lady who runs the club, we learn that she lives on site in the middle of the concert hall on a sofa with her boyfriend. It asks us to choose a French name, this will Cecile, it is really very nice (she recalled several times after Wane to receive news about the tour and we speak).

Depart fogs and cold station, the train is at 7am. There are taxis more easily than expected. Usual scan our luggage at the entrance of the station is always the chance of a stampede, everyone tries to pass us because we are very busy …

We learn quickly that the train will be late, it comes from the north and is stuck in a snow storm, all the cities through since the beginning are now covered by 50 cm of snow … In fact we almost ‘got lucky with the weather … I can not imagine being stuck in a drain, 3 days in the middle of nothing, no water … It happened to Wane and Ben a year ago, AC was finally in brawl …

Lucky then, but our train does not arrive, it is even canceled, it is 8h, 3h that is picked up on ourselves, harassed by a guy who speaks Chinese loop by pasting a 5cm Us despite our “ting poudong” (I understand it), it is funny and 1h carrement becomes tedious after. We are told to wait for the next train to arrive at 10am. There is 10h, it is too late for the same reasons, all of northern China is under the snow … The train finally arrived around 13h, it was demolished, it was confined in a special room with the baby and the VIP party? We knew that it existed.
The benet is followed and we did not stop his armory. It smokes fags, some collapse and arrvivent a sleep for an hour amid a cafarnaum incredible for Western … Speakers in depth, screens screaming everywhere, people who speak very strong …

This process is basically the only day he has inherited so each station without train travelers. We lost our seats since it is no longer the same train journey 8am … The train is bone plug, a type we grow physically able to close the door. With all our equipment … It inimagibable, glues 10cm from head to our neighbors, instruments and bags piled block the door, the Chinese hallucinate to see Westerners in these conditions.
They lived in much the same thing at 9am 2 years ago, a first for Don Vito, Susie in the panic of the rise is found isolated 10m away from us, surrounded by Chinese people laughing. It is a sort of nervous breakdown-crisis of asthma after 1 quarter of an hour, we reach the fetching close to us and the caller against our luggage near the door. We take care of her but the panic, look for dark Wane controllers in the crowd, explaining that a European malaise is between 2 cars and it will not 8am as AC (true ), after a bitter negotiation, they find us … Sleeping … `

Traversee contorted 5-6 cars with our business, a last cigarette, I fall asleep in 10 minutes and woke up 10 minutes before arriving! Susie who just did not get to sleep, others as sinks.
Arrival at Canton, we must still take a fast train to Shenzhen Metro, TGV, 2h30 later we are greeted by the organ at the station …

Its English name is Franky, he speaks very good English, he is aware of what comes through, he reassures us constantly on the road “end of the gallery you are dealing, of everything you are very late, we’ll do everything very quickly but it will be nice. ”

The Drive to the club.
Shenzhen is the economic capital of China, it is like in another country, small neighborhoods with American, low houses, all new roads, trees everywhere, it smells like money.

The club also shed amménagé very large class, a jazz club, we put our luggage on a direct connection with the scales … I see double limit … Then Don Vito, they urge us on the volume, they have problems with the area … It was time to drink the dark and we had the hostel not very far to lay our case, without a doubt the best hotel of the tour. Each bed, showers, luxury, coffee at the reception …

It is distributed directly to eat, they take us just a symbol in a luxury restaurant, the organ, servers and a friend has them, Fei, a Chinese 40 years, deemed contemporary artist in China who has lived 17 years in Germany, it was an underground club in Munich. It has not seem what it is, it seems 60 years, has a face of mafia, very different …
Eaten, the best meal of the tour, the setting is quiet, refined, it literally melts … But we press, it darkens the club, the concert begins.

The room is huge, they push the tables to the scene, 80 people, cool!
The Don Vito start, concert on the nerves, very good, people are in depth, our concert also works well even if it is a little below this evening to my taste …

We serve beer galore, they stop telling us to rest now, enjoy and forget Changsha (we were not against the city but by the boss hate boss Changsha is not the same social and cultural but we were very fond of 2 …) and our hellish day. What is easily tracked through their kindness, their warmth and their standard of living far exceeds ours in Europe …
The trip was organized around the world, he is a musician of jazz and traditional music from Kurdistan.
Fei is a painter, he returned to his hometown after meeting a Chinese in Germany 3 years ago. It has an art gallery just next to the club.
I think he liked the concert and he is very happy to spend the evening with Europeans. Behind his seemingly hard to cook, she is an angel, much discussion, we pay for cigarettes, Jegermaister rounds of beer … It discusses art, philosophy … It melts with happiness, all with a concert by the group’s resident club, Mongolian traditional music …

Not after the hotel, we go well cooked and it collapses, only Thomas and Christian drink one last beer …

Wake up late, coffee on the terrace of the inn filled with students from around the world glued to their netbook. It’s nice and warm …

Franky we just look for a last meal in another restaurant luxury corner, a small walk to get there and make sure we’re not really here in China, big cars, suits for women, business suit for men .. .

Many foreigners everywhere. At the restaurant, tasting of specialties from the corner, ahh!

I spit nothing but thinking about it, one last coffee from Chiapas to the club, heat exchange, it darkens the metro with him. Fei is expected that we will say goodbye and plot. These people are very rich but simple and generous … It fell straight into the tour, they’re all really grateful!

Asseptise after the metro, the train is 1 hour fast to go to Canton, China in return. It’s weird after all this. Canton is crowded, chaotic streets, battle to find taxi ride slalommant ultra fast, scary.
We arrived at the club, located in the middle of a neighborhood in a hotel complex and chic bars. Ours is located at the back near the toilets. It is rather simple. It is a little late, went to eat Orga … An old opens the door, yelling on his flunky with a sacree energy, then it remains at a table throwing us looks black.
1h after waiting Clo decided to attack the soundcheck alone. The gear is rather good but the system and the speakers are rules and places really matter how.

The organ comes in the middle, hardly presents itself, ference on the volume … Too late … Manufactured mouth, sends us to eat with a nice bartender in a nice little restaurant. There is a proper hotel. Back at the club, a lot of people sitting at tables, one begins.
Thomas invite them to stand and has come against the scene, they do but are very surprised, not common here. Tres bon accueil public calm but fortunately an old Chinese dress in cowboy lands on the 2nd part of our concert and execute a shamanic dance tinged smurf … It is the atmosphere.

Same for the concert of Don Vito.
Late Night funny, even if the club is really not funny and if you must stuff the aggressive head of one of the waitresses at each of our 2 free beers, in fact Korean students want to interview the 2 groups, an d they speak French, we had a very good time, it is curious, the, questions, are interesting, 1h maintenance.
We leave this place just after really not nice to take refuge in the hotel, drinking a beer last … We get up super early …

Don Vito, 18th of november
Today will be really exhausting , but we do not know. At five clock we go with three taxis to the train station, buses are driving yet. Our train was delayed and finally fail altogether, in the north there is snow and storms. The tickets we give back and climb up after hours of waiting another train, which is also heavily delayed. When he finally arrives, the car already packed, we must still squeeze inside including luggage somehow, while a crazy train conductress with her megaphone shouting in their ears – Stress! I sense that this will not go well. Inside, we are squeezed in with our stuff in the hallway, there is little air, it stinks of piss, everyone is smoking. I will not tolerate this for eight hours, not even two. Christian discovered Susi pushed into a hallway and somehow shoehorned her into our corner. She is totally buggered, trembling all over, hyperventilating and crying. somethings got to happen. Wane somehow manages that the crew will open the passage to the sleeping car section. Here it is much more relaxed, because here can only enter, who has a sleeper ticket. I do not know who Wane bribed, threatened or begged for, but we actually get each a bed within 6 different cabins, where we can actually relax and sleep until we arrive in Guangzhou. Here we get into a modern, comfortable express train, which brings us in just one hour from Shenzen.
There, at the train station we take the Metro when we land to get out after 10 stations, we are in another world. Organizer Franky and his buddy pick us up and we run a piece through the city. The weather is pleasant, it is very green here, it grow palm trees, bamboo and lots of unknown. The traffic is surprisingly relaxed, it is clean, no one is pushing or rotzt on the street. When we arrive at the club, we suggest erstmal an intermediary, but no – here we are playing. The store is very spacious, classy and stylish, there is a restaurant / bar and a concert room (better-room), then it becomes one. We erstmal be served tea and drinks after the wishes interviewed for the evening, then we build on the stuff and do our sound check. The existing equipment is designed for jazz concerts and rather undersized. The stage sound is ridiculously low and weak, too out front’s lack of power. Nevertheless, there’s already the announcement “too loud”. That can be cheerful – seated jazz audience and the room volume.
When we’re done, we are brought to the hotel that is right around the corner, a modern international youth hostel with clean rooms, sufficient beds and shower – yesss! Time is not here, we are going to run into the restaurant. Wow, what a load – reduced, expensive design with lots of glass, concrete and old wood. Kitchen and guests are in the same room, you can watch to make the noodles. Everything here is freshly prepared. The dishes are simple – noodle soup and ravioli, plus a few little things – but of exquisite quality. Seasoned very reserved, any ingredient may develop their flavor, a stark contrast to the sharp, greasy things that are often otherwise. In the meantime, still dazugesellt Fei, a successful Chinese artist who has operated a few years, a club in Munich. It tries hard to make it, we lack for nothing. Toll here …
No sooner had we finished eating, they say “Showtime!” – From the bar and onto the stage. Phew, we have no buck, well, wat dat mutt mutt. Then the surprise … as soon as we are on the stage to stand on the people coming and ran. The mood is beginning to toll increases, and yet, despite the great gig underground scene sounds. LSB can then also miss a thing, everybody’s happy, even a pile of CDs are sold.
We make ourselves comfortable on the conveyor table, where there is beer from a 5-liter cooler to Selberzapfen. Now for the house band plays the traditional Christmas Chinese-Mongolian music, very pleasant. Fei is in the course of the evening out or one or the other Jägermeister and finally another Zapatista café, then it is off to the hotel.

Don Vito, november 19th

Around noon Franky pick us up and invited us to dinner again. The first shop is full, so go’s on to the next restaurant. Here we are in the Art District, with galleries, shops, cafes and restaurants, and obviously much more money (Shenzhen borders on Hong Kong has the highest per capita incomes in China and is growing extremely rapidly, 1980 today from 30,000 residents to 12 million ). The teahouse, which leads us into Franky now, is not without. He can ascend without end, chicken, duck, pork, catfish, egg, vegetables … Everything is of the finest quality, even a simple broth is a pleasure. We are excited and feel great. Then go to the bar’s again, where we sit outside unter’m tree and calmly take tea and coffee to us before we grab our stuff and move to the metro. The smokers are still endowed with several boxes of ribs, then we go to the station and the express train to Guangzhou.
Once there, we loaded three taxis and are sold 20 minutes later at a large hotel complex, which houses the bar, where we play today. Which has an indoor and an outdoor area, the toilet is located in a cave on the path one must cross a small bridge. By the organizers erstmal is no one there, so we make our own to the sound check, Wane now looking for a hotel. Finally, an emissary of the bar owner appears and leads us into a restaurant. Is pretty tasty here, for a change, today’s times frogs.
LSB is the first day off and do it that people get up and come to the stage, at least in part. The show is good to highlight is an approximately 60 year old guy wearing the one with black leather pants, sequined shirt and cowboy hat, an original dance interlude offers a mix of ballroom dance, break dance and Kung Fu. Our concert is also great, people like it, some are very euphoric. Winner of the evening is Susie, a very pretty girl comes spontaneously to her neck and adorns her Tiger Beer. Envy is certainly her …
Both bands out there still give a video interview, then we go to the hotel. Actually we wanted to go through, because we at 4.30 clock again rausmüssen against two we beat ourselves but all still go there.

Don Vito, november 20th
Getting up is terrible. We grind us out somehow, go to the station and are much too early, so we hang around for another hour at KFC before we go to the waiting room. We are facing a 13stündige train ride is, fortunately, we have Liegewagenplätze. The train is unfortunately not quite so modern, it is very tight and our beds are located in the 2nd and 3 Floor, so climbing is announced. Sleeping is not easy, sometimes it is too hot, sometimes it attracts, the permanent music sound incredibly annoying. Still 1000 times better than sitting or even standing … The lower beds are occupied by a group of young sports men, on their way to a Taekwon-Do are competing. We had been wondering, why the all look so fit …
With some delay, we arrive in Nanning, we are already expected. Organizer Xiao He fought for our taxis that seem to be here in short supply. We land in a large entertainment complex with restaurants, karaoke clubs and bars. Everything is decorated with a billion lights, is also broken out Christmas. The Love Bar Drinking (sic) is located in the back. When we arrive, is the first band just finished their sound check, and starts a little later to play, just about the Britpop corner. I still have to change the strings on my guitar and therefore do not get too much with.
Chop, the band is ready. We are building something, the stage itself is located exactly in a corner, the drums at the back. Everything is shipped one floor below, and we play in front of the stage. The mood is very good, everyone enjoys the gig, here in the south, people seem to be somewhat looser. LSB page to play a good set, but are not completely satisfied. We chat a bit with two German and one Belgian students who rumtreiben tell here and that would have been interesting concert since the first three months in Nanning was nothing going on. Hard to imagine in a 3-million-city … We check into the hotel and go to the organizer and the Annex to eat or something. Here’s not really like what in an as yet unidentified ingredient is that is being used frequently, and not a lot of nasty smells and tastes better. Some Gan Bei! then we can enter the hotel, waiting for tomorrow, a very special purpose for us.

Le Singe Blanc, Nanning, Friday 20 and Saturday, November 21

After a short night at Canton (even shorter one came to the station to catch a 5:30 train 7am, slight errors of evaluation …), we are installed in a sleeper train, glad to to crush and finish the night until noon or one o’clock. We leave for Nanning was 2 days. Normally we should only play on Friday and then go to Guilin and have two days off over there. In fact we learned the day before the date Wuhan Guilin was canceled … As a new program rather than go to the bike and massage in Yangshuo, we’ll do a concert Saturday shopping for a kind of real estate agency (and yes, they just retrieve the pepete …) and a concert Guyang was added on Monday before recovering after the normal route to Chongqing.

We arrive in Nanning ready with an hour delay, it is 20h and the concert to start at 20:30. It’s speed. The organizer, Xiao Ye, awaits us at the station.

We jumped in taxis and arrive directly at the bar. It is rather nice, smaller than last time. It there’s a few people. Just arrived, the local group began the concert for us this line will check and shoo! In Chinese terms it is a little tight of pants. For Don Vito was rather walk it (it was even rather funny because the sound guy took one of his wireless microphone and shouted during their concert) but the white monkey was another pair of sleeve … Besides the fact that they themselves have done a concert not terrible, I think they have served one of the worst sounds I’ve ever done, but failed to rectify the … one desire: that it stops! It’s a shame but there it is, sometimes it works and sometimes it works not. Deception for the last time was a concert of thunder … It is then left in a taxi at the hotel and it was eaten with the Orga (the same place as last time, Lars). There were about twenty, c’etait fun. We ate a plate of super good fish, eggplant and ears of corn on the barbecue, mmhhh AC feels good after a long day almost without eating. It there’s just noodles that have the taste of rancid a bit special … It’s still less than the feast that two years ago and already it’s colder and it is outside, and then we get up a 7:30 for that damn trade show taking place (we just learned) was 10am! oh yeh!
Ethnicity Nanning called the “gun Lao” (or something like that), which means “stuffed” in Chinese, and they are very funny. Vincent teaches a battery of insults nanningois which are certainly an inspiration for future pieces of the white monkey …

After a short night, we here in the icy wind down the hotel was waiting for the minibus that would take us to the trade show. It is 8:30. We arrive there and is promising a big scene out (must be 8 degrees) with plastic chairs along a small mixer rotten on the coast and wireless microphones (as usual ‘).

In the interior plans and layout of the quote for radiant bourges Nanning and visit apartments of 3 witnesses (warning must be put small pads cloth over the boots). The scene was quite horrific. Why is it already? Oh yes we must pay 2500 yuan (around 250euros) to play 4 or 5 pieces per group (but attention must choose the most soft!).

LSB is starting. Impossible question from the sondier (which is stupid) what microphones match what Strips (nice!) And also when I decided not to micro on the battery, it adds one to me charlet full on, in depth in the sound system was a real disaster! I went on stage to mute the microphone, the guy is going to ralumer. I remove the square. Then I turned back, he turned the buttons (without being able to hear where it was what he was doing). In short, I dropped it was a disaster … and between each piece of employers said a lot of stuff into a microphone (certainly boasted of having one group of France, then this group of germany). After the third song, he says something and everyone gets up, following a flag and boarded a bus. It’s weird, even when LSB must still play 2 songs before anyone. For Don Vito is just as bad: I manage has already cut the microphones (at least not ca petera ears and then as there is no voice is less problematic); Susi was playing with my big green sunglasses and a noise-canceling headphones blue, it was fun. After there was also a Chinese group and photo required with the organizers and then had the bar as soon as possible to forget all this. They were expected to pay on Monday Xiao Ye who would then have a transfer Wane. They negotiated and we do not have to pay only 2000 instead of 2500 under the pretext that they were not soft song, “No comment …

After eating and napped, we went lost in the alleys and popular shopping near the hotel was cool. Can not find a net cafe, it had to be a member so that’s why we did not give further for a while. This evening it was still nases of the day so we just eat and spend the evening at the hotel to drink beer and bullshit.

Well I gotta go to soundcheck at the Don Vito little bar in Chengdu. It’s already the penultimate concert of the tour.
Ha ba, ok it mean in Chinese.
soon has the boys, we miss you …

Don Vito, november 22nd
It is time to get up early and take a taxi to the station. The train journey takes 12 hours, there are no beds. The passing scenery is very beautiful, the weather, we would prefer to walk through the countryside and wish us to Guyling.
In the evening we arrive in Guyang. Wane and Clo go looking for a hotel, the rest is waiting in a Dico’s fast-food store, here’s is coffee. The hotel is quite large, the people friendly and the lobby stacked cartons of beer, very welcoming. We still have to wait a while before we can in the room, they will be cleaned again. No idea what has driven the cleaning specialist there, probably frightened the larger animals. The place certainly makes a badly run-down impression of the site’s window vor’m as a bonus. We drink ourselves ready for bed with Bai Diu and O-kip juice and go.

Le Singe Blanc
Kevin, Guiyang, 22nd November

Departure from Nanning, the train is at 12:56 for a duration of approximately 12 management Guiyang is the capital of Guizhou, the poorest province of China, hello offset with Shenzhen, which must be the richest city in the … journey is long but the scenery is magnificent, it is through the silvering of Guangxi and the magnificent mountains, like 2 years ago in Yangshuo, we Guiyang has since the date of Guilin has been annulee.Les Orgas are desperate because they are denied the organisatory concerts because of a neighbor who called police at any concert of folk …
We’re all sad and disappointed for them not to see them again, these people are really super generous and passionate, I hope that everything will settle for eux.C s is basically an American who offered to sell his bar, or the one that has played 2 years ago for the modest sum of 2,000 euros with the equipment and business background, tables, chairs, refrigerators, etc. … It could not have n the purchase at that time and it is the retract another endroit.J sincerely hope that they s will come out.

Everybody takes pictures on the train, sleep, nibbling and spend our time playing, Heiko PURCHASED bao hai, this is a bunch of reptiles, hipocampes, starfish, etc., to put to macerate in the Baijo (Shnap local) No Seller will not stop screaming “Hypa, Hypa” we all think a scooter, and it laughs even louder. It seems that long but we really used to it and ultimately ca va! Arrive around midnight in Guiyang, Wane and Clotilde go in search of a hotel, we settled into a fast food because the only place hot corner for wait, Vincent and I went in search of cigarettes called “light”, it does all the tobacco from the station and end up buying fags light but al apricot flavors, thus fags called for “girls” I do not understand why the clerk grinned tant.Au after 40 minutes, the girls return, mission accomplished! Decollage to the hotel is located one block from the station, everything is quiet there is just taxi drivers who throw themselves at us as we passed . Arrive al hotel, we want to buy beers, wane spoke with the Manager, she finds that the beers are too expensive, the Manager replied
– “But it is the tao ching!”
It is as if we were told
– “Stop, my beer c is the Kro!”
That makes good laugh and we ended up buying him the bieres.Les rooms are not terrible, filthy, no heating and warm water only 19h a 00h, so no shower for another 2 d before jours.Dernieres beers go lie.

Don Vito, november 23rd
The sound check is only in the afternoon, so we quickly explore the area. Right next to the hotel is a dentist, everything takes place in a room that is fully glazed to the front, you can watch the patient’s mouth. However, this is already high standard, is also part-time dentists who offer their services on the open road. So that’s when there’s no national health …
The neighborhood where the hotel is located, makes a rather poor impression, the market, running through the streets, is more of the simple variety. Dog meat seems to be quite popular, prepared a horse. In a tiny restaurant we go to eat fried rice and noodles, it is simple but good. We still hang out a bit, then we grab our instruments and to take the bus to the club. Well, at least in the vicinity, the rest we put back on foot, which is with the crowds and the traffic very difficult. The Luck Club is located at the end of a side street of a large shopping mall. It is a basement club and some punky look. The small stage is a daring design, there are wooden panels, which does not leave you better. The hours go any way to sound check and purchasing for the next day in a nearby supermarket. LSB start, the audience is not very numerous, but the store not too big and a good atmosphere. With us it does not run so well, there are problems with the drums, we go through, does not make it fun.
Beer is free tonight, so we sit for a while. Later on, we still go to a reggae bar, whose owner has invited us … more beer, we slowly get used to the thin stuff. We determined the home will cut down Sterni. Taxi to the hotel, tomorrow is announced early.

Le Singe Blanc,
November 23,

Leves around 11am, it’s super cold in the room but outside it al seem to be super nice, and indeed outside it is super good, great sunshine, we remove the sweater and leave in search of a restaurant.Le station area is crowded, people are very pauvre.Nous we plunge into the streets of a market, dirt road, works everywhere and small stalls selling nouriture potatoes, eggs, meat but also fruits and vegetables that also various exotic , apples, sweet potatoes, red carrots, …

We finally find a small restaurant to eat the nouilles.Nous spend the rest of the after noon in a web cafe to type the blog.Decolage for Luck Cafe, this place is under ground and is small enough, the boss listen eagles.

Beginning of sound check, as usual of the system is its c n Anything, and luckily he brought the guitar and bass amps that N was not when we arrived.
Sidi, the organistrice concert happens, it changed much in two years, now she has dreadlocks but always speaks as loud, it really has an original Personalities for China, it is not no reserve and is very warm.

Debut concert, there is a score of people but everyone comes before and is quite chaleureux.Bon concert for us, Don Vito attack. Christian has a problem with the bass drum skin is broken and was repaired with gaffer, sticks his bat against the skin, the songs suffer but they are not discouraged and finish with a smile.

After the concert Sidi invites us to come into the bar where she works, the owner of Cafe Luck insists that we stay, he is very shy does not speak English but very warm and generous, we stay a moment with him and his girlfriend drink and drink. Leaving us the invite to come with us, it comes and take us by car, how come creme.Nous reggae bar, and we set a table, Sidi n stops not pay us beers,

conversations around the project’s patron in the bar rolling joints, Vincent is in ecstasy as he converses with people without talking langue.fin of the evening, the boss of luck cafe tracks back by car, goodbye once more harrowing and promet back … My impression on this evening, my AC appeared the same atmosphere that 2 years ago, people curious and generous, it touches us all. we assume we coucher.Demain 8am train to Chongqing, I have no malheurusement not had time to slow typing on the keyboard requires, I am trying to catch up soon soon possible.A pals and sorry for the mistakes of spellings I do not know very well where I am.

Don Vito, november 24th

After a few hours sleep, we carted the stuff to the station, again 12 hours are gathering momentum. Luckily, the train is not so full and we can spread ourselves to a few benches and some even a little sleep. The scenery is incredible. High mountains, vast Taäler, lush greenery of every shade, forest, water, banana trees, bamboo … There is much to see.
In the evening we arrive in Chongqing at the usual ritual takes its course, we pull a bag and baggage at McDoof, Wane and Clo go to hotel search. You will soon find one, moreover, a very nice – friendly, clean and modern. Perhaps a little too modern, the glass bathrooms are a matter of taste, not everyone will like spectators at crapping. The beds are wide enough, so many two double bedrooms. Now search for food is urgently announced. We run quite a while through the brightly lit city, which now looks quite impressive. It is hilly, the city is growing up in the air, there are many stairs, under and overpasses, a four-storey highway. We pass through such a thing as too old, but here you never know exactly what is old and what is fake. The half-timbered houses are a little suspicious. Most restaurants are already closed, we end up with an outdoor grill. It takes a basket, grabs the skewer (various kinds of meat, vegetables and tofu) what you want and give the whole thing on the grill specialist, which the whole thing über’m charcoal cooks, zusammenhaut and strong spices. Achieved on our newly introduced Schärfeskale weren values to 3.5, which is already properly. A salt-scale, there is not, unfortunately, Susi portion would have here are good points. We rinse with Snow beer and play Schnickschnackschnuck who empties the hot soup.
Back to the hotel, small corridor, party, sleep.

Don Vito, november 25th

First order of business for today is erstmal to get bus tickets for the trip tomorrow, so off to the station. The density of shoe shiners, beggars and day laborers is particularly high, and there’s great bustle. We once again climb the stairs to the half-timbered houses and turn into a snack. I feel the greasy food slowly to the stomach, a bottle of Mr. Fox would now toll.
The Nuts Club is located in a remote area, our taxi driver takes half an hour and is also not quite sure about the path. The city is huge, hundreds of 20-30geschossigen houses are visible everywhere be built even more. Many of the houses have roof structures that are reminiscent of temples, churches and historic European buildings. While this is not everything fits together, but loose on the image, especially since many are designed to roofs, lush gardens and forests. As above, it can be nice to stay determined.
The concert in the evening is rather unspectacular. The club is large and well equipped, many people are not there, the interest has been limited. Two Frenchmen living here are emerging, with whom we want to eat and then in the vicinity of our hotel and the train station something where they know a good restaurant. Prima thing, we are quite hungry. Unfortunately, both the store can not be found, we always walk through dark alleys, finally ending up in a kind of industrial port area, where eggs aimlessly through the area, the guys are still looking. I am somewhat upset and wonder if anyone really still expected to find a restaurant! Christian again and again points out that the typical horror movies begin the same way. Now we are the victims, any stranger to follow to their doom. Probably they will steal our kidneys and to process the rest of kebabs. Nevertheless, we do not turn back, but eventually end up in a wholesale market for citrus fruits. Oranges, tangerines and more, as far as the eye, it smells great. Between store Scattered groups of traders and laborers, who rightly wonder about the appearance of a cluster foreigners at night time. An old Fann, finally shows us the way back to the main road. Today, all the restaurants have closed only at the station, there’s still a greasy snack, exactly where Thomas did not shoot rats on the day photos. Kein Bock drauf, disgust victory over hunger. In hindsight, it was actually a pretty exciting and interesting trip, but it is only in hindsight.

Le Singe Blanc (Thomas)
Thursday 26 to Saturday, November 28, 2009

Thursday, November 26

6:45: Wake up at the chopper hard for the bus that takes us to Mianyang, about 5am to ride the bus starts, we hope soon we sleep, but the driver we met 1 hour’s karaoke ultra high and, as you can imagine, not at all in our tastes … Not that we not love karaoke …
And to top it all, even the driver himself a taxi, ie to sleep, he would have had to strap the seat is not having to restore the position at each turn, acceleration or pounding.
We arrived about 13h a bus station in Mianyang, great fatigue, we hope that the welcome we had been made 2 years ago will be the same.
The boss of Low bar and his buddy (who was there the last time) ahead, tetris the gear in a pickup (no police this time, cf Blog 2007), we arrive at Low bar, the tabling gear, shift at the hotel (same as last time), it is very strange because we had Wane said that the bar had been destroyed by the earthquake of 2008, but it is in the same complex, the hotel is the same. For Teaching in fact it could be reconstructed on the basis that the immemble has not been completely destroyed, the fact remains that the configuration of the bar is mieu for concerts.

We leave in a good restaurant, like last time, the boss pays for everything, and then sound check, its sounds good.
We have a good 2 hours of waiting before starting, I worry a little about the lack of public, it is generally true that on this tour, it lacks a little, but the bar filled this little by little.

LSB starts and almost directly is the hysteria in the public, Don Vito is impressed by the public, there are ducoup concert super good, brief everyone is happy, our guests are like the last time super attentive and We offer all in all simplicity, It feels really good.
The Don Vito commenecent has this feel better, the beginning As difficult thing for them.
It drags a little bar and restaurant with bar staff, super spicy kebabs, they want us to taste the “crazy chicken” is chicken super spice level 10 celon Vincent (who already has difficulty Dining Level 3), everyone weep and sweat is so strong, and yet only half a wing …

Kevin made his 10-minute morning saying that it is not so strong and too good, he will not say the same thing 1/2h later and especially after the crapper …
It ends with Baijo (rice wine) Save into super, Heiko takes a crazy chicken wing, what the masochistic one.
On going back to the hotel, a few beers in the room and sleep, we have an appointment the next day to eat and go to Chengdu.

Friday, November 27

Reveil difficult thing (see Baijo), the boss will be late, so we decided to eat before leaving, we tried the kebab Chinese is really different, but very good (a bit spicy, but after the crazy chicken … ).
The boss always comes last with his buddy to pick-up towards the bus station, goodbye ripping, they make us promise to return next year by telling us that we had missing for 2 years.

The bus is more comfortable and karaoke takes only a few minutes, then we can rest a little.
We arrive in Chengdu, we must take a bus because the club is really far from the station, then a taxi, we arrived at Litlle bar with more than one hour late, we speed technicians for sound check, the sound is ca good scene going on so quickly, then we’ll eat, we miss over half of the group before.
I think that we did not miss much, it was a group of young people who did things like evanscence or neo metal …
We do not see elsewhere again.
In the audience, many students come in with their French teacher, who invites us to finish the concert to speak, or rather to practice French.
We turn to buy beers for as often, clubs do not rinse, back to the hotel and it was this time that while installing a wheelchair, I felt a strange sensation, wall and floor moves behind and under me, yet I have almost nothing to drink … I notify the other, Clotilde said that Susi is tapping his foot on the ground, it’s still not exactly how I felt, our roommate goes out and explains, in Chinese something incomprehensible, the only word we understand is “earthquake”.
We have confirmation that this had produced an earthquake a few miles from here, but rest assured you we have nothing.
I am looking for info about this earthquake, can be T’on’ll know more soon.
After much discussing everything and anything, we slept, the day was busy.
This morning we go to a tea shop and then for the first time we eat and order especially in a restaurant without using Wane, who was not there, no bad surprises, rather good, we are Now in this net cafe or as usual the 10aines Chinese spend their days playing in the network via the net, it’s very strange to have the impression that surrounds THINKING full of people trained for war, playing soccer, driving … Internet. Sorry I’m not a gambler. The net cafe, the hotel is also poor, the prices are cheaper at night, you can then come t’efondrer in a chair all night for less than 20 yuan (€ 2), it is therefore very strange places, not to mention that after your credit, the computer shuts down without really warn you.

Finally, its like the end of the tour, with dates when the same was expected very Xining, apparently provided by us than by the organ, I hope that you find time to tell you.

[papi a good head Chongqing]
deutsche fassung
First part of Heiko’s tour diary

3./4. 11.
Zwei Stunden Autobahn nach Berlin – warten – zwei Stunden Flug nach Helsinki – fuenf Stunden warten – acht Stunden Flug… endlich sind wir da. Das Gate ist riesengross und fast totenstill, obwohl hunderte von Leuten anstehen – wir muessen naemlich alle durch die Grippe-Kontrolle. Alle sauber, wir duerfen durch. Auf dem Flughafen haben wir nun noch fuenf Stunden zu warten, bis unsere Freunde von Le Singe Blanc ankommen, mit denen wir die naechsten vier Wochen unterwegs sein werden. Auch Alice sollen wir hier treffen, die unser Tour-Guide sein wird. Alice heisst natuerlich nicht wirklich Alice, aber alle Chinesen, die mit Auslaendern zu tun haben, geben sich einen englischen Namen, die chinesischen kann man sich teilweise schwer merken oder aussprechen.
Es ist hier 8 Uhr morgens, aber wir testen schonmal unser erstes Tsing-TaoBier. Ist ganz brauchbar und hat nur 5 Yuan gekostet, etwa 50 Cent.
Alice taucht erstmal nicht auf und wir koennen sie auch nicht anrufen. Also suchen wir uns erstmal Baenke zum Schlafen. Ganz schoen kalt hier, in Peking hat’s am Vortag geschneit. Selbst schuld, die Chinesen: Eigentlich wollten sie Regenfaelle kuenstlich hervorrufen (wird hier oft gemacht), bekommen haben sie 180.000 Tonnen Schnee…
Beim Versuch etwas zu schlafen, kriegen wir auch schonmal feine Kostproben des inoffiziellen Nationalsports geboten: dem Rumrotzen. Gewonnen hat, wer am meisten Schleim am lautesten aus der tiefsten Koerperregion zieht und in schwungvollem Bogen dem Fussboden uebergibt. Trotzdem kann man von selbigem Essen, denn unzaehlige reinigungskraefte wieseln durch die gegend und sorgen dafuer, dass alles blitzblank ist.

Also ab zum Empfang der Franzosen, Alice hat sich inzwischen auch eingefunden, sie hat uns vier Stunden lang gesucht…
Vom Airport geht’s nun per Bus in die Stadt, das heisst eine Stunde vorbei an riesigen Ansammlungen von dreissigstoeckigen Wohnsilos. Wir treffen uns mit Nevin, der die Show in Peking organisiert. Die Rucksaecke kommen in’s Hostel (8 Leute auf 10 qm ohne Fenster, puhh), das Equipment erstmal zu Nevin, die Hotelzimmer sind nicht wirklich sicher.
Dann gibt’s endlich was zu essen. Ein nettes Restaurant, ein grosser runder Tisch mit Drehkarussel und vielen verschiedenen Gerichten drauf, von hmmm bis uaaeh.
Danach geht’s noch in’s D-22, den Club, in dem wir auch spielen werden. Die einheimische Band geben wir uns nicht allzulange, die Versionen von Hawi to Hell und Stawi to Hewen sind schon witzig aber wir viel zu muede, also ab in’s Hostel, ein letztes Tsing-Tao und in die Heia.
Schoen ausgeschlafen, schon ist es Nachmittag. Heute ist noch frei, also ist Tourismus angesagt. Wo muss der Tourist hin? Genau, in die Verbotene Stadt. Schneller Imbiss am Strassenrand und mit der Subway zum Tian Anmen, dem Platz des Himmlischen Friedens, bekannt aus Funk und Fernsehen. Hier gibt’s riesige Videoleinwaende mit schoenen bunten China-Werbefilmchen, viele Uniformen und viele Menschen am Eingang zur Verbotenen Stadt. Viele Menschen gibt’s eigentlich ueberall, hier sind’s noch viel mehr… Die Verbotene Stadt, der alte Kaiserpalast aus dem 15. Jahrhundert, ist schon sehr eindrucksvoll. Ein Tempel oder Palast folgt auf den naechsten, die Plaetze werden immer groesser und prachtvoller. Das ganze Gebilde fasst ungefahr eine Million Menschen. Nach ungefaehr zwei Stunden wird auch schon geschlossen, wir haben aber fast alles gesehen.
Es folgt ein laengerer Fussmarsch zur U-Bahn (die vielen Rikscha-Angebote haben wir abgelehnt), wir koennen noch etwas Peking-Luft schnuppern. So schlimm ist die auch gar nicht, man kann durchaus atmen und man kann sogar den Mond sehen. Der Verkehr ist auch gar nicht so schlimm, man darf halt nur nicht darauf vertrauen, dass die Autos auch tatsaechlich bei Rot halten oder fuer Fussgaenger bremsen. Andererseits kommt man ohne etwas demonstrative Selbstsicherheit nicht ueber die Strasse…
Abendessen, Tsing-Tao, Nachtruhe…
Kevin will Drumsticks kaufen, also fahren wir ins Belltower-Viertel, wo es Musiklaeden gibt. Das Viertel ist derzeit the place to be in Peking, hier gibt’s hippe Laeden mit Streetwear, CD-Shops, Skateshops… was der junge urbane Mensch so braucht. Hier schauen wir uns noch ein bisschen um, fahren mit der Subway zurueck und begeben uns langsam zum Club.
Das D22 scheint ein recht teurer angesagter Live-Club zu sein, die Karte ist auf englisch und viele Auslaender sind da, meist Studenten.
Der Soundcheck zieht sich etwas, zwei Boxen sind kaputt und sehr leise, ansonsten gibt es zwei kleine Transistor-Combos von Marshall und Peavey, wir werden noch lernen, dass das schon gutes Equipment ist.
Den Abend beginnt Nevins Band, zwei Amis, ein Schwede und ihr neuer Saenger, ein voll taetowierter Peking-Punk. Gegeben wird 80er US Hardcore, noch ein paar Misfits-Cover und nach 20 Minuten ist’s schon vorbei. Danach ist eine einheimische Combo dran, interessante Mischung aus Plingplongpostrock, Depri-Punk und Noiseparts. Der Saenger ist sehr emo, dafuer sieht die Keyboarderin aus als wuerde sie eine Maske tragen, waehrend das ganzen Konzerts zeigt sich nicht die kleinste Regung im Gesicht, gruselig. Unser Gig ist ganz gut, der Buehnensound ist scheisse, aber die Stimmung prima. Die naechste Band verpassen wir fast vollstaendig, da wir erstmal draussen bei einem Bier abkuehlen. Nicht viel verpasst, eher mainstreamiger Rock. Den Abend beschliessen LSB, gutes Konzert.
Nach der Aftershow-Party geht… nee, nicht die ganze Bande ins Hotel, sondern der Stress los. Wir laufen mit dem Equipment zu Nevins Bude, schnappen uns die Ruecksaecke und machen uns auf Richtung Bahnhof, was fast zwei Stunden dauert. Die letzte Strecke von der U-Bahn bis zum Bahnhof legen wir wieder zu Fuss zurueck, die schwersten Sachen laden wir in ein Taxi, das mit Susi und Thomas vorfaehrt. Natuerlich werden die beiden prompt an der falschen Ecke abgesetzt und wir brauchen ewig, um uns alle wiederzufinden. Der Pekinger Bahnhof ist riesig und voller Menschenmassen. Bevor wir uns ins Gewimmel stuerzen, verabschieden wir uns noch von Alice. Sie kann erstmal nicht mit uns kommen, da ihre Schwester einen Unfall hatte und Hilfe braucht. Fuer ein paar Tage wird Wane fuer sie einspringen, die die ganze Tour organisiert hat.
Wir begeben uns in die Wartehalle fuer unseren Zug und kriegen erstmal einen Schreck: Die wollen alle da rein? Riesengedraengel, gefuehlte 1000 Leute, wir mittendrin. Irgendwann landen wir dann doch im kilometerlangen Zug, in dem es nicht viel besser aussieht. Mit unserem sperrigen Equipment ist es nicht gerade einfach, wir erzeugen ziemliches Durcheinander. Als alles verstaut ist, quetschen wir uns in unsere Sitze und haben nun acht Stunden Zugfahrt vor uns. Es ist acht Uhr morgens, eng, laut und an Schlaf nicht zu denken. Ich stelle mir zum erstenmal die Frage, was ich hier eigentlich mache.Die Stunden ziehen sich wie Kaugummi, die Landschaft ist oede, die Doerfer trist und vergammelt.
Gegen 16 Uhr kommen wir in Zengzhou an, wo uns Wane schon erwartet. Sie ist Studentin aus Wuhan, mit einem Franzosen verheiratet und hat schon mehrere China-Touren fuer auslaendische Bands organisiert. Sie ist eine sehr angenehme Begleitung und kuemmert sich wie eine Mutti um alles.
Zengzhou ist eine Provinzstadt mit ca. 3-5 Millionen Einwohnern, so genau weiss das keiner. Hier sieht es schon ganz anders aus als in Peking, die Luft ist voller Abgase. Ueberall haengen Leute herum, die auch sehr viel einfacher aussehen als in der Hauptstadt. Wane organisiert zwei Minibus-Taxis, in denen es trotzdem sehr eng zugeht, sind eher Mikrobusse.
Wie es zugeht, dass wir ohne Unfall beim Hotel ankommen, ist ein Mysterium, aber es funktioniert. Wir teilen uns zu acht zwei Dreibettzimmer und ziehen zu Fuss zum Club. Der Weg ist ziemlich interessant, es gibt bunt beleuchtete Nachtclubs und teure Boutiquen, dazwischen Strassenhaendler und Wanderarbeiter, die sich auf ihren Karren fuer die Nacht einrichten, die Kontraste sind schon krass.
Zengshou ist die Hauptstadt der zweitaermsten Provinz Chinas und hat grosse Probleme mit Gewaltkriminalitaet und die hoechtste HIV-Infektionsrate im ganzen Land. Das liegt daran, dass hier das Blutspenden fuer sehr viele Leute eine Einkommensquelle ist und eine Zeitlang einfach mit denselben Kanuelen gearbeitet wurde… ohne Worte.
Angeblich stechen sich hier die Leute schon fuer zwei Yuan ab, na toll. Als Auslaender ist man komischerweise recht sicher, wir kommen auch lebendig im Club an.
Der 7 Live Club ist ein recht grosser Rockclub mit Bildern von Eric Clapton, Bob Marley und Axl Rose an den Waenden. Das nicht allzu zahlreiche Publikum besteht dann auch zum Teil aus Musikerpolizei, die mit ausdrucksloser Mine alles genau beobachtet.
LSB fangen heute an. Man merkt, dass sie muede sind, bei uns ist das danach sicher nicht anders. Nach ein, zwei Ice-Bieren (fuerchterliche duenne Bruehe) bringen wir unseren Kram zum Hotel und suchen was zu essen. Das Restaurant mit dem Affenpenis im Angebot verschmaehen wir und suchen etwas vegetarierfreundlicheres. Auf der bunt bebilderten Karte suche ich mir einen Teller mit gebratenem Haehnchenfleisch aus. Das Zeug ist unglaublich scharf! Alle freuen sich, wie ich mit schwitzend, mit hochrotem Kopf und traenenden Augen dasitze, aber ich esse tapfer auf. Danach geht’s mir prima. Ab in’s Hotel, Dusche, Schlafen.
Heute geht’s nach Zibo, diesmal mit dem Bus. Zwar laeuft auch hier wie in allen Bahnhoefen, Kneipen, Bars bruellend laut der Fernseher mit jeder Menge Schiessereien und Explosionen, trotzdem sind die acht Stunden Fahrt entspannter als im Zug am Tag vorher, wozu auch regelmaessige Pinkel- und Rauchpausen beitragen (im Bus darf man erstaunlicherweise nicht rauchen, sonst geht das ueberall, sogar im Fahrstuhl).
In Zibo holt uns Gastgeber Jerry (der natuerlich nicht wirklich Jerry heisst…). Er verteilt uns und das Equipment auf drei Taxis und eine Motor-Rikscha und los geht’s. Die Taxifahrer hier sind noch krasser als in Zengzhou, die haben echt mit dem Leben abgeschlossen, besonders mit dem der anderen Verkehrsteilnehmer. Von ihren Fahrgaesten sind sie durch einen Plexiglaskaefig getrennt, sie werden schon wissen warum.
Trotzdem kommen wir ohne Schaden beim Club an, sogar die Rikscha mit den Gitarren usw. taucht nach ein paar bangen Minuten auf. Es gibt helfende Haende, herzliche Begruessung, der Club ist nett, das Hotel nur 20 Meter weiter… wir fuehlen uns gut.
Die Amps heute sind bisher die schlimmsten und kleinsten. So richtig brutale Noise-Attacken sind mit einem Peavey Bandit nicht wirklich drin… Dank der PA und Clothilde (LSB-Soundfrau) geht’s dann doch irgendwie und wir gehen erstmal essen. In den kleinen Gassen rund um den Club gibt’s jede Menge kleine Staende und Restaurants. Wir landen in einem Laden, der bisher eindeutig der dreckigste und ungemuetlichste ist, aber grandiose Grillspiesse bietet. Wir sitzen um den Tisch mit Holzkohlefeuer in der Mitte, ziehen uns Unmengen von den Teilen rein und zahlen am Ende fast nichts, es ist unglaublich billig hier.
Die Gigs am Abend sind prima, die Stimmung ist sehr gut. Statt Pogo tanzen die Leute hier Ringelpietz mit Anfassen, grossartig. Susi bekommt nach dem Auftritt von einem schuechternen jungen Herrn eine Rose ueberreicht, wie im Fernsehen, goldig. Nach der Show gibt’s Karaoke und Bier satt und zwar chinese style aus kleinen Glaesern und mit Anstossen. Gan bei! Im Hotel hat diesmal jeder ein Bett, dafuer geht das Klo nicht, irgendwas ist ja immer. Die Hotels, in denen wir schlafen, sind ja immer von der einfachen Sorte, in die Auslaender eigentlich gar nicht reinduerfen, das geht nur ueber die Locals.
Gegen Mittag muessen wir raus. Unser Zug nach Hefei geht erst um halb elf am Abend, also haben wir viel Zeit in Zibo. Viel zu sehen gibt’s hier allerdings nicht, also schlagen wir die Zeit in Restaurant und Internetcafe tot, bevor wir unsere Sachen aus dem Club holen und die Taxi-Chaoten uns zum Bahnhof fahren. Dort angekommen, stellen wir fest, dass zwei Taschen fehlen, die Jerry dann schnell noch hinterherbringt. Guter Mann!
Auf dem Bahnhof wird’s lustig. Dass wir Blicke auf uns ziehen, sind wir nun schon gewohnt, aber hier in der Wartehalle haben wir wirklich die volle Aufmerksamkeit von hunderten Leuten.
Wir wollen noch etwas einkaufen und entscheiden uns fuer den groesseren von zwei Shops. Dass man immer das Verfallsdatum checken muss, haben wir schon gelernt, daher gehen wir hier wieder raus ohne was zu kaufen. Wirklich alles ist mindestens sechs Monate abgelaufen, egal ob Bonbons, Tuetensuppe oder Bier. Im naechsten Laden sieht es etwas besser aus, ausserdem gibt es hier interessante Leckereien fuer die Reise wie abgepacktes Fleisch von Huhn, Schwein,Esel oder Hund, Seidenraupen, Schweineruessel, Huehnerfuesse, Minikrabben oder auch getrocknete Pflaumen mit Erdbeergeschmack. Ich kann mich gar nicht entscheiden und kaufe daher die billigste Flasche Bao-Jin-Schnaps fuer 3 Yuan (ungefaehr 30 cent). Das Zeug faellt wahrscheinlich bei der Huehnerfussproduktion ab, es schmeckt noch scheusslicher als erwartet. Nach dem Kosten will keiner den letzten Schluck austrinken.
Die dreizehnstuendige Zugfahrt nervt, wird aber aufgelockert durch Wanes Erzaehlungen ueber entfuehrte Frauen, den Handel mit frischen Frauenleichen fuer post mortem Eheschliessungen und andere Gruseligkeiten.
Als wir gegen Mittag in Hefei ankommen, sind wir ganz schoen alle. Kaum aus dem Bahnhof raus, werden wir von einer Horde Bettler ueberfallen, die unglaublich hartnaeckig sind. Thomas erwischt eine Frau mit der Hand in seiner Tasche und Christian fehlt hinterher sein Telefon, wahrscheinlich hat er’s aber im Zug liegenlassen. Mit dem Bus fahren wir eine Stunde durch die STadt, bis wir in einem Neubauviertel aussteigen, das an die Uni grenzt und entsprechend von vielen Studenten bewohnt wird. Die “On the Way Bar” befindet sich in einer Art Einkaufszentrum und ist sehr gemuetlich. Das Hostel liegt gleich ein Stockwerk h;yher und wir koennen uns noch eine Stunde hinlegen. Die vergeht wie nichts und schon ist Soundcheck dran. Ich staune nicht schlecht, als fuer die Gitarre eine Marshall mit 4x12er daseht und noch mehr, als sich das Teil als selbstgebastelte Kopie erweist, inklusive ausgesaegtem Marshall-Logo. Klanglich gibt’s leider weniger Aehnlichkeit. Nach dem Check sind wir zum Essen eingeladen, es gibt das obligatorische Tischkarussell mit allerhand bekannten und unbekannten Leckereien. Alle sind unglaublich freundlich hier, niedliche junge Menschen winken uns zu und ein paar trauen sich auch, uns anzusprechen. Es stellt sich heraus, dass wir die ersten auslaendischen Bands sind, die hier spielen, auch sonst verirren sich wohl wenige Fremde hierher. Entsprechend ist der Club dann auch gut gefuellt, obwohl am naechsten Morgen alle frueh rausmuessen. Das Konzi ist ganz witzig, die Leute sind sichtlich beeindruckt. Es wird extrem viel fotografiert und auch danach wollen sich viele mit den Bands ablichten lassen. Viele kleine und duenne Biere spaeter machen wir Feierabend fuer heute.
Ohne grosse Zwischenfaelle gehts am Morgen zum Bahnhof, die Bettler und Taschendiebe lassen wir souveraen hinter uns und entern den Schnellzug, der uns in nur einer Stunde nach Nanjing bringt. Die verbringe ich im “Gespraech” mit einem Dozenten fuer Umweltschutz aus Shanghai. Die Kommunikation ist sehr schwierig, wir brauchen alle Finger, Stifte, Karten.
Nanjing war ueber Jahrhunderte chinesische Hauptstadt und ist heute eine moderne Grossstadt mit vielen imposanten Gebaeuden. Der Club hat noch zu, also bringen wir erstmal unser Zeug in’s Hotel. Das ist etwas teurer und die Kasse knapp, daher muessen zwei Zweibettzimmer reichen. Nach einer Mahlzeit in einem winzigen Restaurant geht’s in die Old Castle Bar. Das ist ein hipper Club mit europaeischen Preisen, in dem hauptsaechlich reiches chinesisches Partyvolk, Prostituierte und deren auslaendische Kunden kommen. Bis auf ein paar Ausnahmen hat das Publikum ziemlich ‘nen Stock im Arsch, die meisten sitzen auf ihren Barhockern, grinsen ab und zu und klatschen hoeflich. Trotzdem irgenwie witzig. Auf dem Klo labert mich ein besoffener Franzose an und erklaert mir das Problem unserer Band. Wir sollen uns nicht gegenseitig bekaspern sondern das Publikum unterhalten. Ich erklaere ihm, dass er keine Ahnung von Kunst hat und sehe zu, dass ich ihn los werde.
Die Getraenke in dem Laden sind viel zu teuer, daher versorgen wir uns beim Kiosk um die Ecke und befuellen die Glaeser neu. Kevin und ich beschliessen, bei McDonals nebenan einzukehren. Wane laedt uns ein, sie ist naemlich uebergluecklich, dass sie ihre Geldboerse wiedergefunden hat, nach der sie zwei Stunden suchen musste. Chicken Mala kann man essen…
Nachts im Hotel veranstalten wir noch eine kleine Party in unserem Zimmer mit jeder Menge Unsinn und Gelaechter, zweimal muss Getraenkenachschub geholt werden. Wane trinkt nicht viel, sondern macht Videos von dem ganzen Quatsch. Ausserdem bringt sie uns dazu, Huehnerfuesse zu kosten…

Der Zug nach Wuhan ist wieder ein Schnellzug, mit 250 km/h duesen wir durch die Landschaft,d ie jetzt richtig schoen wird. Nebelverhangene Berge, kurvige Flusslaeufe und Terrassenfelder ziehen an uns vorei. Nach dreieinhalb Stunden sind wir am Ziel, es ist schweinekalt hier.
Ben, Wanes Mann,holt uns ab und wir quetschen uns erstmal alle in einen Linienbus, um uns dann auf zwei Wohnungen aufzuteilen. Don Vito zieht bei Wane und Ben ein, die in einem teuer aussehenden Appartementhaus wohnen. Wuhan ist eine vielfaeltige, lebendige Stadt mit ca. 10 Millionen Einwohnern. Hier gibt’s hypermoderne Gebaude mit spektakulaeren Leuchtreklamen und Videowaenden, die groesste Mall der Welt gleich neben der Wohnung (5 Etagen, 1.3 km lang), aber auch Parks, Seen, historische Klosteranlagen und ungefaehr 100 Universitaeten.
Spaeter treffen wir uns alle zum Abendessen im Sichuan-Style, d. h. Schweinefleisch und viele Gemuese und alles choen charf. Anschliessend kehren wir in der Folk Hand Bar ein, einem Punkrock/Rockabilly/Garage-Laden, wo wir einen Taetowierer treffen, den Ben empfohlen hat.Ich mache ihm einen Termin fuer morgen, Christian kann’s nicht abwarten und schreitet gleich zur Tat. Gestochen wird in einer Ecke der Bar, der Herr Kuenstler arbeitet sehr sauber und sorgfaeltig, vom Preis mal ganz abgesehen. Wir anderen schauen zu und vertreiben uns die Zeit mit einem Getraenk. Am Ende des Tages teilen wir uns auf und gehen erstmal schlafen.
So richtig erholsam wird die Nacht nicht, im Appartment ist es arschkalt, die Fenster sind nur fuer den Sommer gut und die Heizung wird nie angemacht, da zu teuer.

Der Zug nach Wuhan ist wieder ein Schnellzug, mit 250 km/h duesen wir durch die Landschaft,d ie jetzt richtig schoen wird. Nebelverhangene Berge, kurvige Flusslaeufe und Terrassenfelder ziehen an uns vorei. Nach dreieinhalb Stunden sind wir am Ziel, es ist schweinekalt hier.
Ben, Wanes Mann,holt uns ab und wir quetschen uns erstmal alle in einen Linienbus, um uns dann auf zwei Wohnungen aufzuteilen. Don Vito zieht bei Wane und Ben ein, die in einem teuer aussehenden Appartementhaus wohnen. Wuhan ist eine vielfaeltige, lebendige Stadt mit ca. 10 Millionen Einwohnern. Hier gibt’s hypermoderne Gebaude mit spektakulaeren Leuchtreklamen und Videowaenden, die groesste Mall der Welt gleich neben der Wohnung (5 Etagen, 1.3 km lang), aber auch Parks, Seen, historische Klosteranlagen und ungefaehr 100 Universitaeten.
Spaeter treffen wir uns alle zum Abendessen im Sichuan-Style, d. h. Schweinefleisch und viele Gemuese und alles choen charf. Anschliessend kehren wir in der Folk Hand Bar ein, einem Punkrock/Rockabilly/Garage-Laden, wo wir einen Taetowierer treffen, den Ben empfohlen hat.Ich mache ihm einen Termin fuer morgen, Christian kann’s nicht abwarten und schreitet gleich zur Tat. Gestochen wird in einer Ecke der Bar, der Herr Kuenstler arbeitet sehr sauber und sorgfaeltig, vom Preis mal ganz abgesehen. Wir anderen schauen zu und vertreiben uns die Zeit mit einem Getraenk. Am Ende des Tages teilen wir uns auf und gehen erstmal schlafen.
So richtig erholsam wird die Nacht nicht, im Appartment ist es arschkalt, die Fenster sind nur fuer den Sommer gut und die Heizung wird nie angemacht, da zu teuer.


Die naechsten Tage werden wir in Wuhan verbringen, heute abend spielen LSB, morgen wir, danach ist noch ein Tag frei. Nachdem wir uns mit den Franzosen getroffen haben, gehen wir fruehstuecken. Beliebtes traditionelles Fruehstueck hier sind Nudeln mit einer scharfen Sesam-Erdnuss-Sauce, lecker. Dazu noch ein Grillspiess und der Tag kann kommen. Kevin braucht schon wieder was aus dem Music-Shop, ein Blech ist kaputt. Wir fahren also mit dem Bus in einen anderen Stadtteil. Dort angekommen, laufen wir erstmal durch einen Park am Revolutionsmuseum, der voll ist mit kunterbunten kitschigen Blumenarragements zu verschiedenen Themen wie Bildung, Steuern, Landesverteidung und ewige Liebe. Die Musiklaeden gibt’s alle nicht mehr, nur noch ein paar fuer Pianos und Verwandtes. Ben hat noch einen Tip und wir landen in einer Schlagzeugschule mit kleinem Shop drin. Waehrend Kevin das Angebot prueft, koennen wir den kleinen Wundertrommlern von morgen zuhoeren und -sehen und unzaehlige Beweise fuer gewonnene Contests bewundern.
Auf dem Weg zurueck zum Bus kommen wir an ein paar Frauen vorbei, die am Strassenrand stehend irgendwelche kunterbunten Zettel anbieten. Ich erfahre, dass man hier alle moeglichen Rechnungen und Bescheinigungen kaufen kann, von abgestempelten Bahn- und Flugtickets fuer die Spesenabrechnung bis hin zu Diplomen und anderen Abschluessen. Wir ueberlegen kurz, fuer 20 Euro einen chinesischen Ehrendoktortitel zu erwerben, lassen’s dann aber doch bleiben. Nach einer guten Stunde Busfahrt zurueck schaffen wir unser Equipment zum Vox-Club. Das ist ein recht grosser und superprofessioneller Laden, Backline und PA sind vom Feinsten, das Personal ist fit und spricht gut englisch. Highlight ist allerdings ein rot-weisser Kater, der unglaublich neugierig und vorwitzig ist. LSB bauen auf und machen Soundcheck, ich hab um 7 Uhr meinen Tatto-Termin, also kurz um die Ecke zur Folk Hands Bar und den Arm freigemacht. Trotz der geringen Groesse des Motivs dauert es doch eine ganze Weile, als wir zurueck in den Club kommen, ist die Vorband schon fertig. Schade, soll ganz gut gewesen sein. Es sind ca. 150 Leute da, darunter viele Franzosen. Es gibt nicht so viele Auslaender in Wuhan, von denen kommen aber viele aus Fankreich, unter anderem weil Renault und Citroen hier Werke haben. Alle die wir kennenlernen, sind jedoch Fremdsprachenlehrer an einer der Unis. LSB spielen eine prima Show mit zwei Zugaben, das Publikum ist fuer hiesige Verhaeltnisse recht munter. Gegen Ende des Gigs fuellt sich der Laden nochmal deutlich, danach ist naemlich Disse. Entsprechend ist das Publikum, wir ziehen um in die Folk Hand Bar. Dort hat gerade jemand Geburtstag und es gibt Freigetraenke fuer die naechste Stunde, auch danach wird froehlich weitergezecht, das Geburtstagskind wird bewusstlos rausgetragen. Frueh am Morgen eiern wir nach Hause. Unterwegs kaufen wir noch fuer jeden ein Endbier, Christian traegt den Beutel und legt sich schon nach 10 Metern damit hin – 50 Prozent Verlust. Wir schlafen auch so gut ein…


Heute wiederholen wir das Fruehstuecksritual mit Sesamnudeln, dann fahren die Jungs von LSB mit Ben in einen Park, um fuer sein aktuelles Projekt Fotos zu machen. Sie kriegen Fetischklamotten angezogen und rosa Dildos in die Hand gedrueckt und posieren wie Urmenschen… Clothilde ist Stoffe einkaufen gefahren und die Vitos gehen mit Wane in die Mall – Christian soll eine neue Brille kriegen, die sind hier sehr billig. Sehtest und Gestell aussuchen dauert fast eine Stunde, die Anfertigung auch. In der Zwischenzeit gehen wir in einen Supermarkt, um Saft und Wasser zu kaufen. Grosser Fehler – der Supermarkt ist riesengross, zweistoeckig und total ueberlaufen. An jeder der 40 Kassen stehen mindestens 30 Leute an, es dauert eine gute Stunde, bis wir hier wieder raus sind. Inzwischen ist auch die Brille fertig, hat ca. 15 Euro gekostet. Wir machen, dass wir hier wegkommen und haengen ein wenig in der Wohnung ab. Aus dem Fenster sehen wir, dass draussen der Verkehr total zum Stehen gekommen ist, nichts bewegt sich mehr. Zu Fuss gehen wir zum Club und warten auf den Soundmann, der zwei Stunden spaeter eintrifft, auch zu Fuss. Die Zeit vertreiben wir uns mit Billard und mit dem Kater, der auch mitspielt. Ich wechsele die Saiten auf meiner Gitarre, das unglaubliche Tier klaut mir eine und ich muss ihm durch den ganzen Laden hinterherrennen, um sie wiederzukriegen.
Heute kriegt auch Thomas ein Tattoo, sein erstes, und das gleich auf dem knie. Nach ein paar Minuten sieht er ganz schoen gruen aus im Gesicht. Wir koennen nicht warten bis er umkippt (passiert auch nicht, er haelt tapfer durch) und gehen in den Club. Die Vorband spielt epischen Postrock ohne Hoehepunkte. Es ist nicht so voll wie gestern, der immer noch stehende Verkehr macht sich bemerkbar, nicht mal die Crew im Club ist vollzaehlig. Unser Gig laeuft ganz gut, bei der zweiten Zugabe wollen wir Ka spielen, aber ich hab keine Ahnung mehr, wie das Stueck anfaengt und muss aufgeben, wir spielen was anderes. Egal, lustig. Gleiches Spiel wie gestern, Flucht vor den Discogaengern in die Folk Hands Bar, Absacker, Home, Schlafen, Kaelte.

15. 11.

Heute wird’s richtig eklig. Es ist kalt, stürmisch und ein garstiger Schneeregen kommt runter. Wir lassen uns aber nicht von unserem heutigen Plan abbringen und quetschen uns nach dem letzten Sesamnudelfrühstück in den Bus. Die Mühle müssen sie in Rumänien ausgemustert haben, es kracht, knirscht und die Abgase landen alle im Inneren. Zum Glück sind viele Fenster kaputt, auch wenn es dadurch zieht wie Hechtsuppe.
Die Tortur dauert eine Stunde, dann sind wir an der Endstelle angekommen. Hier fließt der Jangtse durch Wuhan, bestimmt einen Kilometer breit. Für 1 Yuan pro Person setzen wir mit der Fähre über, was ungefähr eine Viertelstunde dauert. Die Zeit verkürzt uns ein Herr mit seiner Karaoke-Maschine, er ist laut aber nicht besonders gut. Auf der anderen Seite angekommen, fallen uns erstmal ein paar winzige Hausboote ins Auge, auf denen Leute unter unfassbar ärmlichen Bedingungen hausen.
Der Markt ist der Hammer. Unzählige Straßenzüge voll mit Hunderten oder Tausenden kleiner Stände und Geschäfte, dazwischen unaufhaltsames Gedränge und Geschiebe von Menschen, Lastenkarren, Mopeds… Es gibt verschiedene Bezirke für Haushaltwaren, Stoffe und Wolle, Schuhe und Klamotten, Lebensmittel, Werkzeuge und und und. Sehr eindrucksvoll auch die Mietskasernen dazwischen, die wie viele Wohnhäuser in China den Eindruck von totalem Chaos und Verfall bieten, vergitterte Fenster bis in die 10. Etage, überall hängt Wäsche, es liegt jede Menge Müll herum.
Als wir die Fähre zurück nehmen, sind wir ganz schön erschöpft. Der Sänger ist ein viel besserer diesmal. Die Musik ist zwar ziemlich kitschig, paßt aber irgendwie gut zur Stimmung, als wir in der beginnenden Dämmering über den Jangtse schippern. Ich komme mir vor wie in einem Reisevideo.
Der Bus zurück ist heile und dicht, dafür so voll, daß man die Füße anziehen könnte, ohne zu Boden zu fallen. An jeder Haltestelle geht das Gedränge los, Leute werden in den Türen eingeklemmt. Das ganze dauert über eine Stunde und schlaucht ganz schön. Das müßte ich nicht jeden Tag haben…
Als wir endlich aussteigen und zum Club laufen, um unser Zeug abzuholen, ist es saukalt und Schneeregen schlägt uns entgegen. Zur Belohnung und weil’s der letzte Tag in Wuhan ist, gönnen wir uns ein etwas besseres Restaurant. Es gibt Shrimps, gebratenes Lamm, verschiede Gemüse und Nudeln. Das Fleisch kommt auf die Gasflamme in der Mitte des Tisches, jeder kriegt Plastikhandschuhe, und man kann sich die Stücke per Hand aus der Pfanne angeln, tolle Schweinerei.
Ein letzter Kurzbesuch in der Folk Hands Bar, dann ab zu den Schlafplätzen, die Nacht wird kurz.
Eine Änderung im Plan gibt’s noch, Alice kann die Tour nicht mit uns machen, es gibt Probleme mit der Familie, Wane schwänzt die Uni und wird uns begleiten.

Nach vier Tagen Dauerfrierens geht die Kälte ganz schön an die Substanz, darum freuen wir uns richtig auf den Zug nach Shangsha. Nach der üblichen Busfahrt und Warterei und Drängelei auf dem Bahnhof ist es dann soweit – rein in den Zug, Zeug verstaut, Plätze eingenommen… irgendwas stimmt hier nicht. Die Heizung geht nicht und es zieht durch den ganzen Wagen. Neeeinnn! Wir versuchen uns warme Gedanken zu machen, was über knapp vier Stunden nur bedingt funktioniert.
In Shangsha angekommen, marschieren wir nach angenehm kurzer Busfahrt in den Club, der einen sehr angenehmen Eindruck macht und vor allem über eine funktionierende Heizung verfügt – Wärme!!! Wir scharen uns um die Heizung und tanken erstmal richtig auf, das tut gut. Wane geht los und sucht ein Hotel in der Nähe. Sie findet ein teures und ein billiges, bucht das billige. Das Wort Dreckloch trifft es ziemlich gut, die Absteige ist echt übel. Fenster gibt’s entweder gar nicht oder sie sind kaputt, für die Heizung muß man im Dreistundentakt zahlen, heizen tut sie doch nicht. Wir gehen was essen, dann zurück in den Club. Der Soundcheck muß noch etwas warten, erst wird noch repariert und gelötet. Als alles einigermaßen funktioniert, geht’s auch schon los, eine lokale Band fängt an. Die drei Jungs sind noch sehr jung und ihr melodischer Green Day-Punkrock hat noch ein paar Ecken. Die nächste Band haut ihren klassischen Oi-Punk routiniert raus, das Publikum geht gut ab. Als letzte spielen LSB, die Leute mögen vor allem die straighten Stücke.
Ich fühle mich den ganzen Abend über hundeelend, hab das Essen im Verdacht. Kein Bock auf Bier, ich will nur noch in’s Bett. Im kalten Hotelzimmer verkrieche ich mich unter der Decke, um die nächsten 12 Stunden zu schlafen. Die anderen machen noch Aftershow im anderen Zimmer, ich krieg nur dunkel mit als die Nachtruhe eingeläutet wird.

Gegen Mittag stehen wir auf, es ist Zeit sich ein wenig umzusehen. Gegenüber ist ein Schuhmarkt, wo man alle möglichen Treter von adidas, adidos, abibas und anderen Markenherstellern finden kann. Um die Ecke gibt’s eine Straße mit jeder Menge Läden für Haustierbedarf, einem Hundefriseur, einem Tierarzt. Zwei Häuser weiter verkauft ein Typ Fleisch von Reh und Hund am Stück. Schon komisch, die einen ziehen ihren Fiffis Bienenkostüme an (fast alle Hunde hier sind bekleidet), die anderen hacken sie in Stücke und essen sie auf – irgendwie symptomatisch für das Land.
Richtig spannend ist es nicht, die nächste Stunde bringen wir in einem Internet-Café zu. Heute geht sogar Myspace, so daß ich endlich mal den ersten Teil des Blogs reinstellen kann. Natürlich ist es auch hier eisig kalt. Letzte Rettung ist McDonalds, da gibt’s Kaffee und es ist warm. Auf dem Weg zurück erfahren wir, daß Wane schon ganz verzweifelt ist, wo wir bleiben, wir sind eine halbe Stunde zu spät.
Sinnloserweise spielen heute dieselben beiden Bands wie gestern dieselben Sets wie gestern, logischerweise sind viel weniger Leute da. Wir spielen eines der besseren Sets bisher, erreichen die Leute aber nicht so richtig. Es ist hier oft so, daß das Publikum zwar durchaus beeindruckt aber auch etwas ratlos und überfordert wirkt, dabei haben wir schon einige der schrägeren Stücke weggelassen und durch zugänglicheres ersetzt.
Nach der Show will der Betreiber der Bar uns noch was Gutes tun und lädt uns in ein Restaurant mit lokalen Spezialitäten ein. Es ist dasselbe wie gestern! Ich bin gerade wieder genesen, verzichte daher auf weitere Experimente und beschränke mich auf mein Getränk. Die Toilette in dem Laden ist übrigens wirklich sehenswert, selbst für hiesige Verhältnisse sieht’s hier extrem keimig aus. Daß man auf dem Weg durch die Küche und an diversen Schlafräumen vorbeimuß, macht die Sache auch nicht besser. Schnell in die Absteige und in’s Bett, wir müssen 4.30 Uhr wieder raus, es ist schon eins durch.

Heute wird es richtig bunt, aber das wissen wir noch nicht. Um fünf Uhr fahren wir mit drei Taxis zum Bahnhof, Busse fahren jetzt noch nicht. Unser Zug hat Verspätung und fällt schließlich ganz aus, im Norden gibt es Schnee und Stürme. Die Tickets geben wir zurück und besteigen nach stundenlanger Warterei einen andern Zug, der auch massiv verspätet ist. Als er endlich ankommt, sind die Wagen schon brechend voll, wir müssen uns trotzdem samt Gepäck irgendwie reinquetschen, während uns eine durchgeknallte Bahn-Trulla mit ihrem Megaphon in die Ohren brüllt – Streß! Ich ahne schon, daß das nicht gut gehen wird. Im Inneren stehen wir eingequetscht mit unserem Zeug auf dem Gang, es gibt kaum Luft, es stinkt nach Pisse, alle rauchen. Das werde ich keine acht Stunden aushalten, nicht mal zwei. Christian entdeckt Susi abgedrängt in einem Gang und bugsiert sie irgendwie in unsere Ecke. Sie ist total fertig, zittert am ganzen Leib, hyperventiliert und weint. Es muß etwas passieren. Irgendwie schafft Wane es, daß das Zugpersonal uns den Durchgang zur Schlafwagensektion öffnet. Hier geht es wesentlich entspannter zu, denn hier kommt nur rein, wer ein Schlafticket hat. Ich weiß nicht, wen Wane bestochen, bedroht oder angebettelt hat, aber wir kriegen tatsächlich jeder eine Liege in verschiedenen 6er-Kabinen, wo wir tatsächlich ausspannen und schlafen können, bis wir in Guangzhou ankommen. Hier steigen wir in einen modernen, angenehmen Schnellzug, der uns in nur einer Stunde nach Shenzhen bringt.
Dort am Bahnhof nehmen wir die Metro, als wir nach 10 Stationen aussteigen, landen wir in einer anderen Welt. Organisator Franky und sein Kumpel holen uns ab und wir laufen ein Stück durch die Stadt. Das Wetter ist angenehm, es ist sehr grün hier, es Wachsen Palmen, Bambus und jede Menge Unbekanntes. Der Verkehr ist überraschend relaxt, es ist sauber, keiner drängelt oder rotzt auf die Straße. Als wir im Club ankommen, vermuten wir erstmal eine Zwischenstation, aber nein – hier werden wir spielen. Der Laden ist sehr groß, nobel und stilvoll eingerichtet, es gibt ein Restaurant/Bar und einen Konzertraum (besser -saal), später wird daraus eins. Wir bekommen erstmal Tee serviert und werden nach den Getränkewünschen für den Abend befragt, dann bauen wir das Zeug auf und machen unsere Soundchecks. Das vorhandene Equipment ist für Jazz-Konzerte ausgelegt und ziemlich unterdimensioniert. Der Bühnensound ist lächerlich leise und kraftlos, auch vorne raus fehlt’s an Power. Trotzdem gibt’s schon die Ansage “zu laut”. Das kann ja heiter werden – sitzendes Jazz-Publikum und Zimmerlautstärke.
Als wir fertig sind, werden wir zum Hotel gebracht, daß sich gleich um die Ecke befindet, ein modernes internationales Youth Hostel mit sauberen Zimmern, ausreichend Betten und Dusche – yesss! Zeit bleibt hier keine, wir werden gleich in’s Restaurant geführt. Wow, was für ein Laden – reduziertes, teures Design mit viel Glas, Beton und altem Holz. Küche und Gäste befinden sich im selben Raum, man kann beim Nudeln machen zusehen. Alles wird hier frisch zubereitet. Die Gerichte sind einfach – Nudelsuppe und gefüllte Teigtaschen, dazu ein paar Kleinigkeiten – aber von erlesener Qualität. Gewürzt wird sehr zurückhaltend, jede Zutat darf ihren Geschmack entfalten, ein krasser Gegensatz zu den scharfen, fettigen Sachen, die es sonst oft gibt. Inzwischen hat sich noch Fei dazugesellt, ein erfolgreicher chinesischer Künstler, der auch ein paar Jahre einen Club in München betrieben hat. Man gibt sich alle Mühe, es uns an nichts fehlen zu lassen. Toll hier…
Kaum haben wir das Essen beendet, heißt es “Showtime!” – ab in die Bar und auf die Bühne. Uff, wir haben gar keinen Bock, naja, wat mutt dat mutt. Dann die Überraschung… kaum sind wir auf der Bühne, stehen die Leute auf und kommen ran. Die Stimmung ist von Anfang an toll und steigert sich noch, toller Gig trotz des unterirdischen Bühnensounds. LSB lassen anschließend ebenfalls nichts anbrennen, alle sind glücklich, auch ein Haufen CDs werden verkauft.
Wir machen es uns am Band-Tisch gemütlich, wo es Bier aus einem 5-Liter-Cooler zum Selberzapfen gibt. Nun spielt noch die Hausband traditionalle chinesisch-mongolische Musik, sehr angenehm. Fei hat im Laufe des Abends noch den einen oder anderen Jägermeister und zum Schluß noch einen Zapatisten-Café raus, dann geht’s ins Hotel.

Gegen Mittag holt uns Franky ab und lädt uns nochmal zum Essen ein. Der erste Laden ist voll, daher geht’s weiter zum nächsten Restaurant. Wir befinden uns hier im Art District mit Galerien, Shops, Cafés und Restaurants und offensichtlich viel viel Geld (Shenzhen grenzt direkt an Hong Kong, hat das höchste Pro-Kopf-Einkommen Chinas und wächst extrem schnell, von 30.000 Einwohner 1980 bis 12 Millionen heute). Das Teehaus, in das uns Franky nun führt, ist auch nicht ohne. Er läßt auffahren ohne Ende, Huhn, Ente, Schwein, Catfish, Ei, Gemüse… alles ist von feinster Qualität, selbst eine einfache Brühe wird zum Genuß. Wir sind begeistert und fühlen uns toll. Anschließend geht’s nochmal zur Bar, wo wir draußen unter’m Baum sitzen und in aller Ruhe Tee und Kaffee zu uns nehmen, bevor wir unser Zeug schnappen und zur Metro ziehen. Die Raucher werden noch mit diversen Schachteln Kippen beschenkt, dann fahren wir zum Bahnhof und mit dem Schnellzug weiter nach Guangzhou.
Dort angekommen, beladen wir drei Taxis und werden 20 Minuten später an einem großen Hotelkomplex abgesetzt, in dem sich auch die Bar befindet, in der wir heute spielen. Die hat einen Innnen- und einen Außenbereich, die Toilette befindet sich in einer Höhle, auf dem Weg muß man eine kleine Brücke überqueren. Von den Veranstaltern ist erstmal keiner da, also machen wir uns selbständig an den Soundcheck, Wane sucht inzwischen ein Hotel. Schließlich taucht ein Abgesandter des Barbesitzers auf und führt uns in ein Restaurant. Ist ziemlich lecker hier, zur Abwechslung gibt’s heute mal Frösche.
LSB sind heut zuerst dran und schaffen es, daß die Leute aufstehen und zur Bühne kommen, zumindest ein Teil. Die Show ist gut, Highlight ist ein ca. 60jähriger Typ , der, mit schwarzer Lederhose, Paillettenhemd und Cowboyhut bekleidet, eine originelle Tanzeinlage bietet, eine Mischung aus Standardtanz, Breakdance und Kung Fu. Unser Konzert ist auch prima, die Leute mögen es, einige sind sehr euphorisch. Gewinner des Abends ist Susi, ein sehr hübsches Mädchen fällt ihr spontan um den Hals und spendiert ihr Tiger-Bier. Der Neid ist ihr gewiß…
Beide Bands geben draußen noch ein Video-Interview, dann gehen wir zum Hotel. Eigentlich wollten wir durchmachen, da wir um 4.30 Uhr wieder rausmüssen, gegen zwei hauen wir uns aber doch alle noch mal hin.

Das Aufstehen ist furchtbar. Wir leiern uns irgendwie raus, fahren zum Bahnhof und sind viel zu früh da, so daß wir noch eine Stunde bei KFC rumhängen, bevor wir zum Warteraum gehen. Vor uns liegt eine 13stündige Zugfahrt, zum Glück haben wir Liegewagenplätze. Der Zug ist leider nicht ganz so modern, es ist sehr eng und unsere Betten liegen in der 2. und 3. Etage, also ist Klettern angesagt. Schlafen ist gar nicht so einfach, mal ist es zu heiß, mal zieht es, die permanente Musikbeschallung nervt ungemein. Trotzdem 1000mal besser als Sitz- oder gar Stehplätze… Die Betten unten sind belegt von einer Gruppe junger Sportsoldaten, die auf dem Weg zu einem Taekwon-Do-Wettkampf sind. Wir hatten uns schon gewundert, warum die alle so fit aussehen…
Mit einiger Verspätung kommen wir in Nanning an, wir werden schon erwartet. Veranstalter Xiao He erkämpft uns Taxis, die hier Mangelware zu sein scheinen. Wir landen in einem großen Vergnügungskomplex mit Restaurants, Karaoke-Clubs und Bars. Alles ist mit einer Milliarde Lichter geschmückt, außerdem ist hier schon Weihnachten ausgebrochen. Die Love Drinking Bar (sic!) liegt im hinteren Teil. Als wir ankommen, ist die erste Band gerade mit dem Soundcheck fertig und fängt wenig später an zu spielen, so ungefähr die Britpop-Ecke. Ich muß noch die Saiten auf meiner Gitarre wechseln und kriege daher nicht allzuviel mit.
Ruckzuck ist die Band fertig. Wir bauen etwas um, die eigentliche Bühne befindet sich genau in einer Ecke, das Schlagzeug ganz hinten. Alles wird eine Etage nach unten verfrachtet und wir spielen vor der Bühne. Die Stimmung ist sehr gut, der Gig macht allen Spaß, hier im Süden scheinen die Leute etwas lockerer zu sein. LSB übernehmen, spielen ein gutes Set, sind aber selbst nicht ganz zufrieden. Wir quatschen noch ein bißchen mit zwei deutschen und einem belgischen Studenten, die sich hier rumtreiben und erzählen, das wäre das erste interessante Konzert seit drei Monaten gewesen, in Nanning sei überhaupt nichts los. Kaum vorstellbar in einer 3-Millionen-Stadt… Wir checken im Hotel ein und gehen mit dem Veranstalter und Anhang noch was essen. So richtig schmeckt’s hier nicht, was an einer noch nicht identifizierten Zutat liegt, die hier häufig verwendet wird, eklig riecht und und nicht viel besser schmeckt. Einige Gan Bei! später geht’s ins Hotel, morgen wartet eine ganz besondere Aufgabe auf uns.

Es heißt mal wieder früh aufstehen und mit dem Taxi zum Bahnhof. Die Bahnfahrt dauert 12 Stunden, Betten gibt’s keine. Die vorbeiziehende Landschaft ist sehr schön, das Wetter auch, wir würden am liebsten durch die Natur spazieren und wünschen uns nach Guyling.
Am Abend kommen wir in Guyang an. Wane und Clo gehen ein Hotel suchen, der Rest wartet in einem Dico’s Fastfood-Laden, hier gibt’ s Kaffee. Das Hotel ist recht groß, die Leute freundlich und im Foyer stapeln sich Bierkartons, sehr einladend. Wir müssen noch etwas warten, bevor wir in die Zimmer können, sie werden nochmal saubergemacht. Keine Ahnung, was die Reinigungsfachkraft da getrieben hat, wahrscheinlich die größeren Tiere verscheucht. Die Bude macht jedenfalls einen arg heruntergekommenen Eindruck, die Baustelle vor’m Fenster gibt’s als Bonus. Wir trinken uns bettreif mit Bai Diu und O-Saft und gehen pennen.


Der Soundcheck ist erst am Nachmittag, also erkunden wir erstmal die Gegend. Direkt neben dem Hotel befindet sich ein Zahnarzt, alles findet in einem Raum statt, der nach vorn vollständig verglast ist, man kann den Patienten in den Mund schauen. Das ist allerdings schon gehobener Standard, es gibt auch nebenberufliche Dentisten, die ihre Dienste auf offener Straße anbieten. So ist das, wenn’s keine gesetzliche Krankenversicherung gibt…
Das Viertel, in dem sich das Hotel befindet, macht einen ziemlich ärmlichen Eindruck, auch der Markt, der sich durch die Gassen zieht, ist eher von der einfachen Sorte. Hundefleisch scheint hier recht populär zu sein, auch ein Pferd wird zubereitet. In einem winzigen Restaurant gehen wir gebratenen Reis und Nudeln essen, es ist einfach aber gut. Wir hängen noch ein wenig rum, dann schnappen wir uns die Instrumente und fahren mit dem Bus zum Club. Naja, zumindest in die Nähe, den Rest legen wir zu Fuß zurück, was bei den Menschenmengen und dem Verkehr ziemlich mühsam ist. Der Luck Club befindet sich am Ende einer Seitenstraße einer großen Einkaufsmeile. Es ist ein Kellerclub und sieht einigermaßen punkig aus. Die kleine Bühne ist eine gewagte Konstruktion, es gibt Holzplatten, die man besser nicht verläßt. Die Stunden gehen irgendwie hin mit Soundcheck und Einkauf für den nächsten Tag in einem nahen Supermarkt. LSB fangen an, das Publikum ist nicht besonders zahlreich, aber der Laden nicht zu groß und die Stimmung gut. Bei uns läuft es leider nicht so gut, es gibt Probleme mit dem Schlagzeug, wir ziehen durch, Spaß macht es nicht.
Bier ist frei heute abend, also sitzen wir noch eine Weile. Später wechseln wir noch in eine Reggae-Bar, deren Besitzerin uns eingeladen hat… noch mehr Bier, langsam gewöhnen wir uns an das dünne Zeug. Zuhause wird uns das Sterni bestimmt umhauen. Taxi ins Hotel, morgen ist früh aufstehen angesagt.

Nach wenigen Stunden Schlaf karren wir das Zeug zum Bahnhof, wieder liegen 12 Stunden Fahrt an. Zum Glück ist der Zug nicht so voll und wir können uns auf ein paar Sitzbänke verteilen und zum Teil sogar etwas schlafen. Die Landschaft ist unglaublich. Hohe Berge, weite Taäler, üppiges Grün in allen Schattierungen, Wald, Wasser, Bananenbäume, Bambus… es gibt viel zu sehen.
Am Abend kommen wir in Chongqing an das übliche Ritual nimmt seinen Lauf, wir ziehen mit Sack und Pack bei McDoof ein, Wane und Clo gehen auf Hotelsuche. Sie finden auch bald eines, ein sehr nettes noch dazu – freundlich, sauber und modern. Vielleicht etwas zu modern, die gläsernen Badezimmer sind Geschmackssache, nicht jeder mag Zuschauer beim Kacken. Die Betten sind breit genug, also reichen zwei Zweibettzimmer. Nun ist Nahrungssuche dringend angesagt. Wir laufen eine ganze Weile durch die bunt erleuchtete Stadt, die jetzt recht eindrucksvoll aussieht. Es ist hügelig, die Stadt wächst in die Höhe, es gibt viele Treppen, Unter- und Überführungen, eine viergeschossige Schnellstraße. Wir durchqueren auch so etwas wie eine Altstadt, wobei man hier nie so genau weiß, was alt ist und was Fake. Die Fachwerkhäuser sind schon etwas verdächtig. Die meisten Restaurants sind schon geschlossen, wir landen bei einem Freiluftgrill. Man nimmt sich einen Korb, packt sich von den Spießen (verschiedene Sorten Fleisch, Gemüse und Tofu) was man möchte und übergibt das Ganze an die Grillfachkraft, die das Ganze dann über’m Holzkohlefeuer gart, zusammenhaut und kräftig würzt. Auf unserer inzwischen eingeführten Schärfeskale weren Werte bis 3,5 erreicht, was schon ordentlich ist. Eine Salz-Skala gibt es leider nicht, Susis Portion hätte hier gut punkten können. Wir spülen mit Snow-Bier nach und spielen Schnickschnackschnuck, wer die scharfe Suppe austrinkt.
Zurück ins Hotel, kleine Korridorparty, Nachtruhe.

Erste Amtshandlung für heute ist erstmal, Bustickets für die Fahrt morgen zu besorgen, also ab zum Bahnhof. Die Dichte an Schuhputzern, Bettlern und Tagelöhnern ist hier besonders hoch, es herrscht großes Gewusel. Wir erklimmen nochmal die Treppe zu den Fachwerkhäusern und kehren in einem Imbiß ein. Mir geht das fettige Essen langsam auf den Magen, eine Flasche Herr Fuchs wär jetzt toll.
Der Nuts Club liegt in einem weit entfernten Stadtteil, unser Taxifahrer braucht eine halbe Stunde und ist sich auch nicht ganz sicher über den Weg. Die Stadt ist riesig, Hunderte von 20-30geschossigen Wohnhäusern sind zu sehen, überall werden noch mehr gebaut. Viele von den Häuseren haben Dachaufbauten, die an Tempel, Kirchen oder historische europäische Bauten erinnern. Das paßt zwar alles nicht zusammen, lockert aber das Bild auf, zumal auf vielen Dächern üppige Gärten bis Wälder angelegt sind. Da oben läßt es sich bestimmt nett wohnen.
Das Konzert am Abend ist eher unspektakulär. Der Club ist groß und gut ausgerüstet, viele Leute sind nicht da, das Interesse hält sich in Grenzen. Zwei hier lebende Franzosen tauchen auf, mit denen wir anschließend in der Nähe unseres Hotels und des Bahnhofs etwas essen wollen, sie kennen dort ein gutes Restaurant. Prima Sache, wir sind recht hungrig. Leider können die beiden den Laden nicht finden, wir laufen durch immer dunklere Gassen, landen schließlich im einer Art Industriehafengelände und eiern dort planlos durch die Gegend, die Jungs suchen immer noch. Ich bin einigermaßen sauer und frage mich ob wirklich noch jemand erwartet, hier ein Restaurant zu finden! Christian weist immer wieder darauf hin, daß typische Horrorfilme genau so anfangen. Nun sind wir die Opfer, die irgendwelchen Fremden in ihr Verderben folgen. Wahrscheinlich wird man uns die Nieren stehlen und den Rest zu Grillspießen verarbeiten. Trotzdem kehren wir nicht um, sondern landen irgendwann in einem Großmarkt für Zitrusfrüchte. Orangen, Mandarinen und mehr, soweit das Auge reicht, es riecht toll. Dazwischen lagern vereinzelte Gruppen von Händlern und Arbeitern, die sich zu Recht über das Erscheinen eines Haufens Ausländer zu nächtlicher Zeit wundern. Ein alter Fann weist uns schließlich den Weg zurück zur Hauptstraße. Inzwischen haben alle Restaurants geschlossen, nur am Bahnhof gibt’s noch einen schmierigen Imbiß, genau dort, wo Thomas am Tage noch Rattenfotos geschossen hat. Kein Bock drauf, Ekel siegt über Hunger. Im Nachhinein war es eigentlich ein ziemlich spannender und interessanter Ausflug, aber eben erst im Nachhinein.

chinese bands
collection of chinese noise bands
8 eye spy

asthma writers union

muscle snog

(hm, later found out that 8eye spy actually didnt play together with dv and lsb, because was cancelled, but i think they are a pretty good band)


  1. Johannes said,

    Sehr sehr cool…

  2. Cristen said,

    I’ve subscribed to your feed! Will be coming back ehre often.

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